Toyota RAV4

2002 Toyota RAV4 Engine   

My Rav4, which I love,had been blowing some dark smoke out the exhaust on start-up for a few months, so on my 80,000 maintainance (I've never missed one)I asked them to check out this problem. They called at the end of the day to say the car needs valve seals for $1031.00. My question: This seems way too early for seal replacement,but if needed I'll do it. I've read that it may be better to leave it alone, use some sort of additive that helps seal up the seals, and all will be fine for a very long time. Is this true? Also what would the mechanics have had to do to determine the need for seals? It seems they did something major bcause 1)my radio and clock settings needed to be reset and 2)I immediately have a problem of accelerating, as though all of a sudden the clutch is in and the car is revving but no acceleration or very little. VERY DANGEROUS! What's with that? She had NEVER done that before. I need quick advise before I do anything. Karen

Is your check engine light on while the engine is running?

This is a manual transmission? Is is most noticeable on hard acceleration? It sounds as if your clutch is slipping (you may have noticed a nasty smell from it). If it is this will require replacement. Beware of driving to much like this because when it goes it will strand you.

The running problem you are experiencing now is much more critical than the valve seals. Lets get that squared away then move on to the smoke problem. I am curious if the smoke was blue (as would be the case with oil leaking past worn valve seals) or black which changes things considerably.

Thanks for your quick reply. Yes, this is a manual - all I've ever driven. The smoke was more charcoal looking than greyish or greyish blue....and I believe it has not been a problem since I had it in for that service several weeks ago. I've been more distracted by the acceleration problem, which oddly, was not present at all before it went in for the 80,000 and was present immediately. The check engine light did not go on until two days ago. I didn't think a clutch job would be in the picture yet. We've driven manuals for 40 years now and only once had a clutch job on an old, used VW in the 60's. I'm not hard on my cars, buy them new, keep them for 5 to 10 years and put on 20 to 25,000 a year. We still have our first car after marriage, a '71 Super Beetle, with 180,000 and she runs great(although she only goes out for fun in fair weather these days)!
So...what about my Rav4? What do I do? I obviously feel like something happened when she was in the shop to precipitate the acceleration problem. Sorry I couldn't pay up the suggested price...just don't have the funds.

I'm not sure what the interface looks like on your side of things, but your current offer is fine.

Black smoke is a sign of excess fuel from a rich condition. Smoke will have blue-ish look to it if it's oil.

With a manual trans, when you are in gear with the clutch all the way up, the clutch is almost always slipping when the rpms increase without the vehicle gainging speed. Please let me know what is different about your situation??

It is possible someone at the shop was 'hotrodding' with your vehicle-- this can do a clutch in quickly. As can an inexperienced driver (at the shop), which is also possibly the case.

I will likely be away for a several hours but will respond to your next reply.

So, if I'm not seeing the smoke any more, maybe the tune-up took care of things??? What of their diagnosis that I need new seals ($1,000+)? Can I let this go if there is no smoke?
Yes, the clutch is all the way out, and it seems to be when you need that extra excelleration as when entering on a highway ramp, up a hill, quick acceleration needed. Does this occur all of a sudden like this? It never happened before. And....what about needing clutch replacement(is that what it would involve/what should that cost?)at 80,000 miles?
Also, the check engine light should reveal something on the diagnostics, right?

You can go to Advance Auto or Autozone and have them check the trouble codes-- A trouble code is stored in the computer (called the PCM) when the check engine light is on. Oh, this is a free service they provide.

Let me know which alpha-numeric codes they find. Examples of these codes are P0300. P0401, etc. It is important to share the code designation with me and not the store clerks "interpretation" of the codes as this can be misleading.

Well, it seems the "check engine" problem is separate from the clutch problem. As my son was driving home the acceleration/clutch problem worsened to the point that the car would barely go and he smelled a bad odor. AAA towed it to my dealer.

The engine report number is P0128 which they told me has to do with engine temp control and I would need a new thermostat for $200. How does this sound?
Also, they said I'll need a new clutch assembly (clutch, cover plate, disk, bearings and grinding of the fly wheel) for $1750. ????? They agreed with me that this seems a bit early for a clutch, but I have had a 16 through 19 year old driver in this car the past few years. The start up smoke problem has not been present since the last tune-up, so we're just going to watch that. The Toyota guy admitted they had a new guy on my car that visit who they have since fired. Comments please.

These prices are high, if not very high.

There are other causes of the P0128- a new thermostat for $200!! Wow, unbelievable.

There must be less expensive alternatives avialable to you. I'd consider having the flywheel resurfaced and installing a used clutch kit from a salvage yard. As you noted modern clutches usually last a long time-- A low mileage wreck would have the original Toyota clutch parts-- which I'd put more value on than aftermarket clucth kits. That said, aftermarket clutch kits are a much less expensive alternative to dealer parts. Bottom line, a clutch is not worth $1750 and a thermostat is not worth $200 (which may or may not fix the problem).

Let me know what you are thinking and we'll go from there.

By the way many independent shops flat rate. That means if you provide the parts they will change the clutch in a preset amount of time. Probably within 4 or 5 hours (possibly less) at a preset hourly rate. I'm thinking parts and labor for the clutch should be within the $400-500 range with a flywheel resurface. Unless labor rates are extremely high in your area.

O-o-o-o-o- I just hate all of this! I'm going to run all this by my husband now that he's back and decide what to do. I NEED MY CAR RUNNING ASAP! So, if I'm going to get parts myself, the best way to get them is how????

I personally would go with used parts from a salvage yard (any 2002 with low miles should have original Toyota parts) or an aftermarket clutch system (auto parts storre or ebay). To me, a clutch is not worth $1700 (less labor).

Does your husband do any mechanical work?

1998 Toyota RAV4 Fuel System Stalling When accelerating Always

My car is a manual transmission. It stalls upon accelerating, and while driving cuts out and then picks back up. Seems to lose power when going up hill. The check engine light is on. I added fuel cleaner. Could it be bad gas? Had oil changed recently, checked level, it is fine.

One more thing. When the car is idling, you can feel the engine "stalling" or cutting back. Thanks

The check engine light on indicates the 'computer' has detected a fault(s) and stored a trouble code. You need a scanner or code reader to access trouble codes. The good news is Autozone, Advance Auto, and some other parts stores will access the codes free of charge.
Have the codes read and we'll go from there. Please come back with the actual trouble code designations (e.g.- P0300, P0401) and not the parts store description of the problem.

Thanks....what is your take on the stalling? Bad gas?

We have had an unusually bad year with gas, especially with restrictions being eased on fuel quality. I cannot rule this out as the cause, but at the same time must consider other frequent causes.

The stalling on acceleration acceleration and uphill climb raises two flags-

1- Lack of fuel supply (partially plugged filter, weak pump, engine load being falsely reported by sensor to computer)

2- Ignition system components failing when extra 'power' is needed to fire under load

The trouble codes the autoparts store finds is the starting point in diagnosis. The code should help to isolate problem, especially if a sensor is not functioning.

Reply back with the trouble code(s).

1996 Toyota RAV4 All Part Groups Overheating When driving Always

Overheating while driving It just started doing this have put water in but it is still overrheating what is the problem

Hello, Are you losing coolant onto the ground? Are your cooling fans running when they should? Is anything blocking air flow through the radiator?

Does the engine go from a cold start right up to overheating quickly? That would indicate a thermostat stuck partially open or stuck closed.

What engine please?

Roger

Hi, May I have an update on your question status please?

Thanks,

Roger