Toyota Tercel

1997 Toyota Tercel Ignition System Won't Start Happens always 

My Tercel was having trouble starting, I had to press the gas pedal in order to get it revving and after it starts it's ok. Now when I try to start it wont. What could be the cause? I checked and was not getting sparks in my plugs. They say it could be the ignition module. How right is this assertion?

I think you would want to consentrate on the simple tuneup parts primarily
then go to the costly componets next
that is my suggestion then you may want to exchange the module
I hope this helps

1997 Toyota Tercel Drive Train / Driveline   

have had two transmission go out in a matter of days why

If automatic trans, the cooling lines and or the transmission cooler might be plugged. Was the origional torque converter also used?

1997 Toyota Tercel Fuel System   

where is the fuel reset switch located?

I don't think your Toyota use a fuel 'intertia' switch.

I assume you have a start cranks the engine but the engine does not start condition. Have you checked for spark to the spark plugs while cranking the engine?

yes we have and the manual says there is a switch
no power to the fuel pump

Use the following link-

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h42.pdf

Let me know if this matches your fuel system.

1996 Toyota Tercel Ignition System   

I have a 1996 Toyota Tercel 2dr Manual Transmision, The car sputtred and stopped running on two prior occasions and then was parked at work for 4 hours, it has refused to start since then.
I checked and got NO Spark at plugs.
Using OHM Meter I checked the Wires the Ingniters, Cam Position sensor and Crank position sensor.
The Crank Position sensor cam back with "0" so I changed it with a new on.
I am still not getting any Spark at the plugs and not starting.
Could you help with some sugestions.
Thanks

Have you checked to see if there are any trouble codes in the vehicles computer? If you don't have a code reader, most AutoZones will loan you one for a refundable deposit. They also may be able to test the ignitor off the car.

I have not Checked recently but will do that next.

Did you find anything?

No trouble codes were found. However I fixed the problem. After replacing the Crank Position sensor, it seems the connector the wire harnes was loose. I cleaned it with Carbureter cleaner and applied Electric greese for protection and snapped it back together. I did the same for the Cam position sensor connector and the Ingniter connectors.
She started right up after that.
Thanks for your help.

1996 Toyota Tercel Fuel System   

I am experienceing hesitation and (while at higher speeds) subsequent stalling upon deceleration. Had fuel system flush performed and, at mechanic's "advice", the knock sensor replaced. Problem still exists. A colleague w/ mechanic experienced suggested it is the fuel filter in need of replacement. Is this a good idea?

Changing a fuel filter is regular maintenance.A good idea even when there is no problem. A partially plugged catalytic converter will cause hesitation also.
Having the car scanned for codes might keep you from replacing sensors that are ok.

Thanks Bruce! I will likely have it done. The shop I went to did a code read and came up with the knock sensor. I don't know how much research they did after obtaining the code to arrive at their conclusion but clearly it didn't work.

1995 Toyota Tercel Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing When driving No pattern

I have a 1995 Tercel 1.5 engine. I just replaced the head and timing belt. It was running great for a few miles then the engine shut off while driving down the highway, and will not start or even crank. All lights and other electrical is fine. When you turn the switch on, everything comes on as usual but it acts as if the neutral switch is not engaged (gearshift not in Park or Neutral)when you try to crank or start the engine. I would suspect this but why would it shut off while driving. Could the ignition switch be the problem?
Any ideas? Thanks

Yes, the ignition switch could be the problem. That said I would not start there. Instead triple check all wiring, including battery cables and grounds. Be sure to check the connector for the safety switch you already mentioned.

I had just checked all wiring and cables prior to this inquiry but I will check again. I put a jumper across the starter terminals and it will spin but doesn't kick in, doesnt't do this with the key switch. (But of course, the key switch will not even engage the starter.) Is there any sort of computer module that governs this? Whatever it is, it has to do with the starting (cranking) and the running of the engine both, since it quit while driving and now will not turn the starter.
If you have any further ideas, please respond.
Thanks

When you jumpered the starter did you have the key in the on position so the engine could start (if only the start circuit was at fault)? You probably did so you need to move to other preliminary checks.

Does the check engine light come on as it normally does with the key on? Do you have key on reference voltage to the sensors, etc?

Check wires and fuses with a test light to be sure current is flowing through.

The following link should contain a repair guide you can use to access wiring diagrams, etc-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1995 Toyota Tercel Engine   

THE ENGINE CRANKS AND WILL NOT START. IT HAS GOOD FUEL PRESSURE, GOOD SPARK, GOOD INJECTOR PULSE. ALL COMPONENTS SEEM TO CHECK O.K. BUT ENGINE FLOODS RIGHT AWAY. ANY ADVISE WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Sounds like sticking/dirty injectors.(looks like good pulse, but pulse too long)

NO, THAT WASNT THE PROBLEM. THE CAR JUMPED TIME. PLEASE REFUND MY 20.00.

Ok, timing belts do go.Record the mileage and do the preventitive maintenance for next time. A timing belt does have scheduled replacement times. Have a good day!

1995 Toyota Tercel Engine   

i turn key to start and sometimes it starts 10 times in a row and sometimes it wont turn over at all. when it doesnt turn over theres no clicking sound, just a release of pressure or something similiar near the intake manifold. That sound may be normal part of injection system..Solenoid maybe ..???

The solenoid is very possible. What happens when you try again? If it still fails try shifting to neutral (hold the brake on) OR if you have a manual transmission depress the clutch a little farther down. This is to see if the safety switch may be bothering (clutch or park/neutral switches).

Also clean the battery terminals and grounds well, this is especially important if you live in the salt belt.

1995 Toyota Tercel Drive Train / Driveline   

Have 300000kms on my terces and it still runs smooth as silk. I've developed a noise that starts at 80 kms and continues up to 110kms. It sounds like the tire noise you get when you put on a new set of big gap snow tires. I'm a retired mechanic so I've done all the normal tests. Tire balance,rotor shape,front wheel bearings tested with stethescope. It's coming from the front left wheel and will not do it at slow speeds. Makes same noise under back pressure and no noise change when steering hard to either side. Cannot be heard from outside the vehicle , just inside. Transmission bearings are quiet and no seal leaks. No brake calipers hanging up and rotors in good shape After a long drive 100kms-- noise occurs at lower speed also 60kms but only under back pressure. all fluids up and just recently changed transmission fluid 80wgt for 4 speed standard tran. Makes no noise when the wheels are off the ground and car running at highway speeds. No change when clutch engaged or disengaged. No change when tran. in neutral at highway speed and engine down to idle I'm hoping it'll go away on its own checked for aerodynamic noise but nothing loose Shocks need replacing but not loose Any ideas ? Thanks Jerome

Did you check the axle shaft to see if there was a problem here.

Did you rotate the tires to make sure the problem did not follow a wheel?

both axle shafts seem ok no play and no visible signs of damage. Changed tires and also rims thinking they might be generating the noise. still no change the strange part is that under 80kms its quiet as a mouse only after I reach 80kms and above . acting like a wheel balance symptom but both wheels recently balanced and new asr tires

What about the tranxle outputs area? Any play here?

I'll check to see if there is a bulletin on the problem?

checked the tranxle and no play in them at all When you check the bulletons look for a backlash adjustment screw in the differential part of the transmission. cant generate the noise when no load on the wheels dont have a dynamic wheel tester

The only bulletin I could find involved use of the balancing machine.

No adjustments listed in the repair info I have.

Some shops have test equipment that pinpoint the problem via sound detection (frequency). If you could find a place like this that offer free estimates that would be nice.

It seems you have eliminated mounts too, not much left besides the transaxle diff.

Thanks for trying Douglas. I switched the right and lert tires and rotors and noticed a significent decrrease in the noise which makes me thing I might have a cracked rotor. It's an aftermarket one I purchased about 6 years ago . your idea of the sound testing is a good one andif it gets worse I'll try it. For the time being I'll wait till ig gets worse ( or better) and than attack it again. Thanks again for all your help Gonna use this websit more often Jerome

Well, if you decide to try new rotors try ebay. Rotors can (sometimes) be bought for 1/2 price or less (shipped). Note- stay away from inexpensive ball joints (these are failing in weeks).

1994 Toyota Tercel Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

I have been having a problem wherein when I have tried to start my
1994 Toyota Tercel I frequently (but not always) have it go
"click-click" and it wont start until I play with it for a while and
then it usually starts. Here is waht I do know:

1) The battery is virtually new
2) The battery terminals are clean and corrosion free
3) The battery consistantly holds a charge overnight at about 12.85
volts
4) No ancillary equipment is left on [lights, radios etc.]
5) The alternator seems to charge the battery OK
6) Fuses are tight and OK
7) No wires seem to be shorting anywhere but.....[and battery keeps
charge]
8) No dashboard idiot lights came on when it is running for the last few weeks [see below, though]
9) Once I run it some during the day (20 mins or more) I no longer seem to have the problem for that day BUT no always
10) In the last so or so the engine idiot light DID come on and stay on

As far as the "idiot" light goes, I do not think that it has anything to do with your problem. But do see if you can get a repair shop to get the code out. It's prob. the o2 sensor that is shot. As far as the starting prbs go, to me it sounds like it is starter itself/connections at/in the starter. Hope the helps and good luck!!!!

1994 Toyota Tercel Engine Stalling When braking When warm 

Car chugs a little and then dies as you come to a stop. Will restart after longer than normal cranking but repeatedly dies when put in gear and you attempt to accelerate unless you race the engine a bit (it's an automatic but that's still possible). Thanks much! Dennis Perry

Hello, this sounds like the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) won't release when you step on the brake. The clutch is controlled by an electric computer commanded solenoid. When the solenoid sticks, (ON/APPLIED) it's like stopping a stick shift car without releasing the clutch.

The TCC is inside the transmission pan and usually the TCC Control Solenoid, a trans. filter kit and fluid are all it takes to get things right again.

That revving it up and popping the car into gear gets you rolling when the TCC is stuck ON. The car wants to die because you are starting off in too high a gear ratio with the TCC applied.

Are you a tech? You can shop this repair on the phone if you prefer. $100-$200 likely if done by a shop.

Thoughts?,

Roger

I like your answer. I have also gleaned some references on the web to a thing called the "Idle air control valve" causing symptoms similar to mine. Any thoughts on that and how I might discern between the two. One thing that rouses my curiosity is the unusually long cranking after it dies. I didn't spell that out well in my initial question but the car seems to struggle to restart, runs smoothly at idle when it finally does start but dies in gear as you apply gas.

Thanks again

Dennis

I believe the idle air control valve senses that the engine is about to stall. It opens to compensate and the "extra" fuel (meant to raise idle speed) has not burned when the engine stalls. The engine stalls on a too rich mixture and restarting is similar to cranking a flooded engine.

Decerning between the IAC vs. TCC is as easy as shifting your trans. to Neutral before you come to a stop. Your engine will idle normally until you put the car in gear. Then the engine will stall because the TCC is wrongly engaged/applied.

I believe that were you to shift to neutral before you come to a stop and then put the car in gear, when it stalls this time, the crank time to restart will be shorter as the IAC will have been involved for a shorter time period.

The car will likely drive from a cold start to up to ten or so miles driven without the engine stalling at a traffic stop. Once all gets warmed up good, the solenoid sticks and the problem comes back. Sound like your car?

Roger

1994 Toyota Tercel Fuel System Stalling Happens always Always

You Asked: "May 12/06 6:58PM: I really need help with this!!!! I have a 1994 Tercel with 149,000 miles and this problem started recently. It will stall at stoplights,when downshifting and stuff like that. When it turns over just fine but will not start untill it sits for a few minutes and when trying to start it it smells like gas really bad. The check engine light is not on and when i first test drove the car (I drove it for a week) it ran perfect and then all of the sudden it started doing this crap. I brought the car back to the dealer and he put plugs, wires, and distributer cap on it, well that didnt help. So I brought the damn thing back and he "said" he put a fuel pump in it and when I picked it up to test drive it again it would not start after I shut the damn thing off!!!Ok Im almost done!!! I told the guy I didnt want the car so another person test drove it for a bit and didnt have any problems so I decided to give the car another shot,well that brings me here. Ive had the car back noew for 2 weeks and the it ran awesome for the first week and a half and BAM!!!!!!! its doing the same shit again.What could this be????? Please help me!!!"
Fuel System - Stalling - always - happens always

Did this "dealer" do any kind of diagnostic scanning on the vehicle to determine the cause of your problem?Is this a recently purchased vehicle?It appears you have taken the vehicle back to the "dealer" two times now.I don't know what state you are located in,but in mine,three is times the charm.If the vehicle cannot be fixed to factory recomendations,then a "Lemon Law" could fall into effect unless you purchased the vehicle "As Is".Check with your local Better Business Bureau and Bureau of Automotive Repairs to see if you have any recourse.These agencies frown very hard on people who market shoddy products.

I am from Wisconsin and the car was purchased as is. I am not sure waht kind of tests he ran. All I know is I really need this car fixed, and he cant seem to figure the problem out.

Sorry for getting back to you so late.Check with your local DMV to see if Wisconsin has any "Lemon Law".You bought it as is you say,but you may have some type of recourse.It sounds to me as if the vehicle has either a timing issue or an errant ECM,both of whitch could be detected with a diagnostic scan.There too is the posibility that the vehicle has an exhaust problem(O2 sensor,catylitic converter)that is causing a build up.From this side of the screen its hard to say where your problem lies without some of these issues answered.Youre case brings up an old memorey of my days working as a manager in a dealership.A customer had purchashed a vehicle that just did not live up to what it was advertised at.After numerous returns to the service floor and countless calls to the manufacture with no resolve,in large letters written on all available places on the vehicle and placards placed to the side he wrote"I Got My Lemon At ****",and parked it in front of the dealership.It took all of 15 minutes for him to be sitting in a brand new vehicle.
Good Luck,
Paul

1994 Toyota Tercel Engine Making Noise Happens always Always

Didn't get enough ifno.If you haven't been answerd try againg.
Thanks,
Paul

look i dont have money to give you like that my tercel engine is knocking when i start it,its so bad i dont drive it and i love that car very much

Look,I don't recieve a dime unless you accept my answer to your question which is very difficult to put one to when all the information I recieved was,"Engine-Making Noise-always-happens always".Now you state the engine knocks upon start up.Does it continue after the engine has warmed up?Does the knocking seem to be coming from the top of the engine or sound like maybe a deeper sound within the engine?These types of noises can come from a number of different areas and parts of the engine that trying to diagnois from this side of the screen without a little more detailed input.If you would care to continue with this and be patient with questions,I'll try to help you find a resolve to your problem.wise contact [redacted] for a refund on any money you may have been charged.I understand your love for the car.My love of cars and keeping them in a proper running order is what got me into doing this type of diagnostic advice,not the money.
Good Luck,
Paul

its comming from the top on the lefthand side knocking real hard even when its ideling i cant seem to know what is the problem so if you know what is the problem that would be just fine with thanks

lawrence.

1994 Toyota Tercel Drive Train / Driveline   

94Tercel but 80k miles only. Most often the clutch is normal but sometimes(in stop-and-go traffic) the bite point moves to the bottom of the pedal. Every once in a while this gets me stuck in the first or rear gear and I cannot depress the clutch enough to get the gear out. I then have to stop the car, turn off the ignition and release the clutch pedal. I then can continue again normally (with bite point in middle of clitch) until it happens again some other time. What could that be?

The clutch master cylinder may be leaking (internally) at times. what will happen is fluid will bypass the seal in the master cylinder instead of pushing the slave cylinder to actuate the clutch.

It is less likely that there is a problem with the pressure plate or release bearing/linkage, but still possible.

Thanks for the reply!
The clutch problem happens very seldomly but is annoying when it happens as I get stuck in traffic. Being intermittend it makes it really hard to invetigate and diagnose.
Are there any tests or tricks that I can try to get to the bottom of the exact problem?

1994 Toyota Tercel Fuel System   

I had a gas leak in my car when I shut it off. I thought it was the gas tank because it was all rusty I had it replaced. Now I have a gas leak when the car is running. what could this be?

You really need to see where the leak is originating from you can do a fuel pressure test on your car first to see how fast it leaks down.
It is possible that the fuel return line is not operating correctly
This issue is one that needs to be addressed imeadiately for you safety, fumes coming out of the car any place other than the combustion chamber is a hazardous location and puts your car in danger of catching fire.
What engine do you have?

4 cylinder engine. The leak looks like it's coming from the bolt that is holding up the fuel tank that is connected in the back left side underneath the car.

You will have to take out whatever you can to get an exact location and check the hoses, a line may be broken or crimped a connection could be loose Whatever it is you can make no mistake at where it is you need to know exactly so it can be addressed and repaired.

any idea if this will cost as much as the new gas tank did? $400

not if you do the work yourself.
It is hard to give a estimate without having it looked at for yhe problem area

Thank you

You are wecome

1994 Toyota Tercel Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Start car- 15A fuse for rear running lights blows. The turn signals and brakes still worked. A friend tried to fix the issue and now i have no rear lights at all. Also whenever i start my car i need to jump it. Also i was wondering what an approximate cost for repairs for this issue would be.

Hello,

What can you do yourself? Can you, or a friend, follow wiring diagrams to troubleshoot the circuit?

Also, by rear running lights, do you mean the tail lights OR brake lights?

If you need a jump to start the car everytime, either the battery terminals needs cleaning OR and more likely the battery needs replacing. Remove the battery and take it to Advance Auto or Autozone and they'll charge/test the battery for you.

We are capable of following wiring digrams. By rear light, i mean all lights in the rear end of the vehicle. It was recently discovered that the battery was in fact bad, and a new one is installed. We still have the issue of fuses blowing.

Okay,

If you leave your email address I'll send you wiring diagrams for the rear lights. Let me know which fuses are blowing and what triggers them to blow. Examples of triggers- Pressing the brake, turning on the key, lights on, etc OR do they blow immediately without a trigger?

THe fuse blows when the lights are turned on. A new issue has been recently discovered. With a new battery, the car now refuses to start. When you dump the clutch on a hill it sputters with no attempt of sparking. When we turn the vehicle on the lights come on, i was thinking maybe a starter issue as well. my e-mail address is [redacted]

1994 Toyota Tercel All Part Groups   

I recently changed the spark plugs. At idle speed the engine is running pretty rough now. I've noticed a loss of power when i accelerate as well. Any ideas on what could cause this to happen and how I can fix it?

Hi, Did you disconnect the spark plug wires one at a time? Could you have crossed any? When disconnecting each plug wire was there difficulty getting it to disconnect that could have damaged the plug wire terminal connection?

There is the chance that one of the spark plugs got cracked when you installed it. It would require removing them to inspect.

With the spark plug wire loosely connected to each spark plug and the engine running at idle try using an insulated tool to pull the plug wires one at a time away from it's spark plug to see if the engine runs worse or there is no change. Runs worse? Reconnect and move to the next. If you get to a cylinder that there is no change in the running of the engine check that plug and wire for condition. Replace as needed.

Questions?,

Roger

When i disconnected the wires i labeled them so they wouldn't get crossed accidentally. During the procedure i did notice that the connector on one of the wires took some effort to remove. The boot came off and the wire was still connected to the old plug. It's possible that mabye it got damaged.

Trying to locate the cause of what is believed to be a misfire is our goal at this point.

Try my method if you can do it safely and not get shocked. Start with the plug wire you remember the problem with.

Depending on the age of the plug wire set you may want to change them.

Roger

1993 Toyota Tercel Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise Happens always Always

I'm getting this clicking noise coming from the drivers side under the dash. It's happening on an irregular pattern. Accompanied with a flash of the clearance lights/LH/RH, brake lights LH/RH and license plate lights. Flash only when started with parking brake on. Clicking started PB on or off. I changed the combo switch - no joy. Can't find the tailight relay. Any help?

Sounds like an interesting one. Your symptoms are similar to an old alarm system in the vehicle acting up. You will need to track down that clicking noise and find what part it is coming from. Use your ears and fingers to find it. If it is an old alarm, disconnect it. If something original, respond with the part number.

The car has an aftermarket Sercurity system/auto start in it. That may be the culprit then. I'd like to eliminate the tailight relay though as well. Where is that located? I've found two "Start Relay" items behind the glovebox.

How do I go about shutting down the alarm/autostart system? I had the switch for it off when I was trying to trouble shoot. Still got the clicking sound.

Can't for the life of me find the part with the problem by listening or feeling. As I say, it's so irregular (no clear pattern) that I've spent some 24 hours and removed most of my lower dash to try to find it.

I don't use the autostart anyway. So I'd really like to shut that down to see if I've got an easy fix.

My mechanic installed the wrong spark plugs during my last tune up. They were smooth versus ribbed. That's when the clicking started. At the same time, I was getting spark to the block versus into the cylinder and the car was almost stalling. We fixed the stalling thing with ribbed plugs but maybe the two are related.

The aftermarket alarm could be installed anywhere, usually under the dash near the steering wheel. It is usually a black box with wires going into both ends. Follow the alarm switch wire to the brain, then unplug it completely. Since you have auto start, you MAY require rewiring several wires for the key to work normally. If your car has a taillamp relay, you will still need it or your lights will NOT work.

Your description still sounds like an alarm acting up. It may have originally failed due to the spark plug problem, although not very likely. The fix is still the same...remove the alarm.

I would definitely wait to track the "clicking" until it is happening and I have the time to track that "nasty little noise".

1993 Toyota Tercel Drive Train / Driveline   

My stepdaughter's Tercel seems to have intermittent clutch action. Sometimes it goes into all the gears fine and then it won't go into any gears; then it will go in fine again. With the vehicle off, if you press the clutch you hear a soft whining sound like the slave cylinder activating. Could the slave cylinder system be malfunctioning (the oil level is fine)?

If a clutch is wearing, you will get intermittent clutch action (sometimes going into gear, sometimes not)
If clutch cylinder or clutch master is failing, look for the following:
Leaks (yours ok)
Not enough travel,(might help)
As the clutch wears, you can compensate, by adjusting the slave cylinder pushrod, a simple thing to do.

Thanks for the answer Bruce. One other thing, if the vehicle has just been turned off, and then started, the clutch works fine. If you hold the pedal down for a little bit and then try to shift it won't go in anymore. Does this mean we might be losing pressure in the hydraulic system? I am going to put it up on the jacks in the garage and try and have a look at the slave cylinder, although with full fluid it is not likely the problem. Could it just be worn and sticky? The pedal feels a little soft when it won't go into gear as well. Sorry to make this into such a big issue, but the two of us are enjoying the investigation. I own heavy equipment and do all the work on them and my own vehicles, but I have very little clutch experience!

Might have a bit of wear or air in the clutch slave/master assy. Getting under is a good idea. If there is an inspection cover on the lower clutch area of the bellhousing, remove it and have a peek at the clutch also.Clutch slave cylinders and masters are reasonably priced and simple to replace (compared to a clutch RE & Re)

1993 Toyota Tercel Fuel System   

car will start but will not stay idling. it dies if i let off the gas

Here are some things to check.
Try cleaning the throttle body. Too much carbon build-up can make a n idle stall. Replace PCV valve. It can cause the car to idle too low. Check the base idle adjustment. Make sure the TPS is adjusted properly. If it is running rough, make sure the EGR valve is not stuck open. Valves that are set too tight can make it stall.

Hope this helps.

1992 Toyota Tercel Engine Leaking When stopped When warm 

how can i fix this?

Hello, What are you wanting to fix on this car?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, What can I do for you?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi, I'm checking in with you. Any news here?

Thanks,

Roger

I'm hoping for an update from you on your question's status.

Please advise,

Roger

1992 Toyota Tercel All Part Groups   

1992 Toyota Tercel will not run if it rains really hard. Have been told that it could be bad spark plug wires.

I'm not sure which engine you have, but assume it has a distributor. Replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. This should do the trick. Let me know if you have any questions.

1992 Toyota Tercel Engine   

Excessive Exhaust when first started up and when accelerating while driving.
Mechanic installed a new short block engine on 11/4/2003.

This year the same 2003 installed short block engine started producing excessive blue to lite gray exhaust when first started up and upon speeding up from a complete stop.

Smog Check 11/10/2003 HC (PPM) Measured at 77, Smog Check 11/25/2005 HC (PPM) measured at 140. Why? All normal maintenence performed on time.

Mechanic gave estimate of approx $900 to repair.

What is causing this problem in an Engine that is only 4 years old?

Sometimes budget rebuilds are not long lasting, but that might not be the case here,It sounds like it might be a valve guide and or a valve seal problem.
To determine if this is the problem, do a "dry" compression test, followed by a "wet" compression test.It is not necessary to do a wet test on all cylinders, just the ones that are below normal.
Short block engine replacement, by the way, means everything rebuilt 'below' the head, longblock means block and head(s) rebuilt.

1992 Toyota Tercel Engine   

I have a 1992 tercel, it has spark, and fuel. The timming is correct, it seams like its getting to much fuel andfloods the spark away any helpful hints would be good. I am at my wits end with it.

Start by checking the fuel pressure regulator, it can leak internally and cause flooding. Pull off the vacuum hose and check for signs of raw fuel.

You also may have leaking fuel injector or a grounded signal to the injector (positive is always 'ON' and negative is pulsed).If negative is always on the injector will pour the fuel on (definite flooding).

You can also have a sensor issue. Does the check engine light come on when the engine is running?

1992 Toyota Tercel Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1992 Tercel with 155000 miles on it. Just recently, the battery & brake lights come on intermittently. Appears to happen when I go over a bump. Tonight I noticed the lights got brighter when the dash indicator comes on.
I'm betting it's a combination of the alternator and the battery, but am concerned about why the brake light comes on at the same time.
What should I expect my mechanic to tell me when he tries to diagnose?

Your mech can test the alt/batt in less than 10 min.You can even take a look at your battery date sticker. Battery life is aprox 5 years...
The bump/intermittent and brighter dash lights make me think there is a poor ground connection in the wiring.Not a bad place to start

1992 Toyota Tercel All Part Groups   

I need to replace the thermostat on a 1992 Tercel. The (2) thermostat housing bolts have nuts on them, but are difficult to reach because located under the distributor. One of the nuts is stripped and I need to get a wrench on it to loosen it. How do you remove the distributor to gain access under it?

To remove the distributor, mark the position of the distributor in relation to the head. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the head. Pull it out from the head. You may need to disconnect some wires to do this. Make sure you put everything back together in the same way. Make sure the shaft of the distributor drops in the slot when you put it back together. Set the distributor to the marks you made earlier before tightening the bolts.

1991 Toyota Tercel Fuel System   

New carb installed on 91 Toyota Tercel. This was a rebuilt guarantied carb. It will not idle right and seems to be running rich. Blowing black smoke out of exhaust, it didn't before the new carb. Also plugs fouling black like to much gas. I can clean plugs and it runs/starts great, but still blowing black smoke and plugs foul after several days. This is the piston carb, it came with a warning that it might seem to run to rich because of the need to replace a vaccum switch/valve when the carb is replaced. The Tercel has two of the mentioned valves so I replaced both of them. Took the car to Toyota they said there was a couple of vaccum hoses in the wrong place, they corrected those but the car still blowing black smoke and plugs fouling. They wouldn't do anything else, said they would need to replace the carb with new Toyota carb. This sounds like the carb just needs adjusting, feel like Toyota is blowing me off. I played with the adjustment screws I could find and it helped but still not right. The car runs great if not idling. How do I adjust the air/fuel mix? Any help would be appreicated. It runs great right after I clean the plugs, but downhill performance after that.
Thanks

Take the carburetor back and get a replacement, something went wrong with the rebuild(perhaps an internal leak, but could be anywhere because they would of had the whole thing disassembled to rebuild). It is not your job to fix it when it came with a warranty, demand a replacement.

It is past the warranty period. This is my daughters car. By the time she came to me for help the 30 day warranty period was past. Any other suggestions? Doesn't this carb have any fuel adjustment? I have found one screw that faces the firewall. Adjusting this helped but it needs more.

Was the carburetor okay for a while?

According to my daughter it was okay for a while.

Hard to say what exactly went wrong, but be sure to rule out a sticking choke or a common float/needle valve problem.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1b/81/5e/[redacted] d801b815e/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1b/75/4[redacted] d[redacted] /repairInfoPages.htm

Copy and Paste the above links into your Address Bar. Only adjust the actual mixture screw as a last resort, as the problem will usually be found elsewhere.

1990 Toyota Tercel Drive Train / Driveline Sticking Happens sometimes When warm 

Clutch makes a slight click or ratcheting noise when shifting in or out of gear then won't release.

clutch pressure plate is bad

1990 Toyota Tercel Ignition System   

I do not have spark. I changed the distributor, coil, ignitor, plug wires, cap but still no spark. I have fuel and compression. I chedk the wires coming into the distibutor and there is 12 volts at the coil. All ohms checks are good at the coil and the ignitor. What else can it be?

Hi,
Please check the following:
- Ignition pick-up coil(inside the distributor)
-Check distributor cap for missing center carbon(inside the distributor cap).
-Engine EFI/Main relay(under the hood)
-Check to see if ignition rotor is turning while cranking the engine to start(timing belt is broken).
- Check ignition switch power supply(remove steering cover).
-Check all fuses in the fuse box(under hood) and second fuse box inside the vehicle-driver's side left kick panel-under the dash-left side.Also fuses at battery positive cable.
-Check wiring harness close to timing cover(under the hood) for possible damaged insulation/shorted).
-

What are other checks other than ohming & gapping, can I do to the pick-up coil? What are other checks I can do to the coil, other than in comming voltage and ohming? How do I check the EFI? Main relay if its working properly?

You may be right when you mentioned the relays. But I don't know how to check them. Can you help me with that.

Hi,
Teste tests have to be done by someone professional who knows how and has the tools.I look into it and I will reply in more details to you.The MAIN relay usually you can check by touching when someone is turning your ignition ON position.You hear a click by touching.For further tests you need the wiring diagram to perform ignition tests.
I will writte to you soon.I will try today if not possible today it will be after EASTER holyday,probably monday evening or tuesday afternoon.Regards,
Peter

I check the voltage at the coil terminals and its okay (12 volts). I still do not have a spark. I can hear the main ecu relay clicking. I replaced it anyway. Next I disconnected the two wire connectors hooked up to the distributor. I check for voltage to the one going to the coil and it's okay (12 volts). However, the other connector going to the pick-up coil did not have any voltage (both wires). By process of elimination, what is supplying voltage to the pick-up coil if the main ecu relay is good? Could it be the ecu?

1990 Toyota Tercel Fuel System   

when i start my car in the morning there is a big knock, if i let it idle and dont step on the gas the car will die. if i step on the gas and the break while im at a stop sign the car will run, after about 15 minutes, the engine is warm and i have no problems. also the air filter is dirt black, no spots of white left, and sucked inward

i also just replaced the fuel filter and take car of my car, its a learning process for me

Assuming that you have changed the air filter, if the problem still exists, get it scanned for codes.Many auto parts stores do this for free.If I had to take a guess, the coolant temp. sensor might be not functioning properly.

the problem dosnt have to do with the coolant.....so what if the car is cold, it should still run smoothly when i start it up in the morning, i shouldent have a big knock until the engine is warm, and when i start it up and let it idle it should not die if i dont give it some gas, so i dont think a sensor has anything to do with it i might have to replace the carbarator because its a peice of shit 1990 toyota tercelll which for the 4 years before 1990 has had problems with the carb...thanks if you have something that might help i would loe to hear it and yes i changed the air filter 5 times in 2 years

You must live in a dusty area!Yes the carbs from that era were a problem.Have you verified that the choke is operating?

1989 Toyota Tercel Engine Chugging When accelerating Always

when i get up to about 65 mph it cuts out and i drift back to 45, then up to 65 again, and back down. once it chugs a few times it seems to run ok. this up and down normally happens 2 or 3 times but has happened as many as 8 or 9 times in 20 miles. any ideas?

Hello, What engine please? How old are the tune up parts like spark plug wires and the fuel filter?

Roger

The manual says the engine is Model 3E, 4 cyl., 88.9 cu. in.

I don't know about the age of the items you asked about as we just bought the car. The previous owner said he had recently replaced the original engine with another used engine.

Thanks.

Does the engine run smooth during this condition or do you feel it is misfiring?

Are you seeing a check engine light come on?

Consider removing the spark plugs for a look as to their condition. Look carefully at the spark plug wires for cracks in the connection boots.

Is this car fuel injected or have a carbureator? Are the vacuum lines in good condition and have good connections at both ends?

Is the transmission an automatic?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi,
It doesn't really feel like it is misfiring; it is like there is nothing and then it catches again and chugs or jerks until it smoothes out again. It is a carbureted engine. The check engine light does come on occasionally. I have found one vacuum line near the carb that is unhooked, but I can't see where it should hook up. Another line is spliced together with a nail. Thanks

Do you have an automatic transmission?

National auto parts chain stores can read the check engine light codes for you. Call ahead and see if there is a charge for this service. They do not charge where I am. I hope the service is free for you as well.

There should be a vacuum hose diagram under the hood. Is it there? Will it help you find where the hoses belong?

Does the check engine light come on when the condition is present?

Do you know the model year the engine in your car is?

Roger

It is an automatic transmission. The spark plugs looked okay. I checked the check engine codes per the operators manual and it referenced two fault codes: "Air flow meter signal" and "Throttle position sensor signal." I can't tell from the vacuum hose diagram where the hose should hook on. It doesn't seem to be pulling any vacuum through the hose. It is only a short hose but I have checked in all directions within reach of the hose and can't find a connection.

Do you have a digital multimeter?

Roger

My multimeter has a dial readout. BTW, the number on the engine block is [redacted] 3E.

Please tell me the number for each of the codes you extracted.

I'm not so sure but what a digital multimeter will be needed for troubleshooting.

Do you want me to email or fax a vacuum diagram to you? Please tell me the address or fax number you prefer.

Thanks,

Roger

the codes are 31 and 41 you can fax the vacuum diag to [redacted] thanx!

Okay,I'll get the fax to you and study these codes.

Roger

I purchased a digital multimeter.

Mike

I'm glad you have a digital meter. It will be handy for tests on autos of all makes.

I've been surfing the Chilton Auto Repair Data Base.

Code 31 = Open or short in Vacuum Switch Signal VSW1 or VSW2. It says the cause can be a bad switch, the switch signal circuit, a vacuum hose, or the ECU.

Code 41 = Throttle Switch Signal (THS). The cause can be the Throttle Switch, the circuit, or the ECU.

In looking at the vacuum diagram I sent to you I'm wondering what they mean!! I can't see a VSW1, or a VSW2 shown in the pic.

When it comes to the Throttle Position Switch I can see that on the diagram.

I want to fax you info on the Throttle Position Switch. Will that be all right? The way this switch is tested makes me think that if it were sticking it could cause the trouble you are having.

Just testing the switch seems to sound as though one could take a car that runs perfect and set up the condition you describe as the testing is done. When the switch is pressed at 2950 rpm the engine hesitates. When the switch is released the engine recovers to 2950 rpm. Coincidence?

When you get this data ignore Figures #13 & #14. They do not apply to your engine. Ignore the heading 3E-E Engines.

To clear codes remove the 15 amp Radio #1 Fuse for one minute and then reinstall the fuse. Run the car and see what code comes back.

I want to look at the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base and see how it compares. I'll be able to access it tomorrow if we need it.

Roger

that will be great. the fax number is- [redacted]

Let me know what you think of the info I sent by fax. Thanks!

Roger

I received the fax and I believe I have located the items to be tested (I hope). I will have to purchase something to measure RPM's before I can test the throttle position sensor.

Mike

All right. It would be nice if you could rent the tool if you do not need to own it.

I'll be waiting for your results,

Roger

1989 Toyota Tercel Engine Overheating Happens always Always

Hi, Where is the thermostat located on an 89 Tercel EZ (3E engine, Fed/Canada configuration)? Thanks

Follow the top radiator hose to the engine, underneath where this hose connects you'll find the thermostat (under the thermostat housing).

Here is link with pictures for the repair- copy and paste into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1b/78/0[redacted] d[redacted] .jsp

1989 Toyota Tercel Ignition System   

About 2 years ago my Tercel died on me. It had an engine seal leak and one morning I fell asleep in it because I was running the AC. When I woke up it sounded very loud. I checked the oil and it was below the hatch-marks, but there was oil on the dipstick.
I left it and added 2 quarts of oil during lunch that day, and it started right up, it wasn't loud anymore.
That evening I left work and everything was running fine. I came to a stop from 60mph, and when I tried to accelerate the care seemed to lose some power

That evening

T I managed to get back up to 60, but then the car shuddered and came to a total stall. I had the car towed to my house. I recently started trying to get it working (just got back from a deployment) and I am getting fuel to the cylinders, and spark to the spark plugs. for some reason though, NO COMBUSTION! What else cold be preventing the fuel from combusing?


That

Welcome Home!

How do you know you are getting fuel the cylinders?

Have you tried spraying carburetor cleaner (not to much, keep it safe) into the throttle body, to see if the engine will start/fire momentarily? If you have and it still won't start, it's time to perform a compression test on the cylinders to see if the engine is capable of running mechanically.

Actually I asked my question a little too early. Now I am getting partial fires, but hardly ever consecutively. My distributor cap is wired up correctly with the correct plug wires going to the correct plugs. The cap and coil are new. I used a screw in each plug wire and could make a 1/4 spark from the screw to the valve cover on all of them.

I knew before that I was getting fuel to the cylinders before because when I I left one of the plugs unseated by acxccident and tried to start the engine. after it turned over for awhile some fuel started to seep out of the plug hole around the plug because it wasn't screwed in. Now I know I must be getting some fuel because I am getting combustion. my exhause manifold is hot to the touch and I feel the engine try to catch. I am concerened that my ECU could be the problem.. ALSO, my car doesn't seem to have a check engine light, so I can'ty figure out how to read my codes.

Did you replace the distributor rotor too?

I don't know what specifically the rotor is, but all I replaced was the distributor cap, everything else looked fine. I just replaced the coil on a whim because I thought maybe the spark wasn't strong enough or something.

The rotor is what is just under the distributor cap, it distrubutes spark from the center distributor cap tower to the 4 spark plug wire towers on the distributor.

Don't overlook battery cables, grounds, connections at starter/alternator, etc.

The rotor looks good. No charring anywhere inside the cap. Brand new battery because like I said the car has been sitting for 2 years. I have tried starting fluid and it seems to make things worse.. ie the cylinders seem to fire less often. I want to grab a new fuel filter and a bottle of heet. The alternator is pointless right now, and the starter is definitely working. I need to get someone to help me check the timing.. maybe the belt jumped.. although it's pretty new and in good shape. WHat else could it be?

If starting fluid makes it worse, you may be getting to much fuel. Try holding the accelerator to the floor, and see if it will start. A problem with the wiring to the alternator can cause problems (irrespective of the alternators ability to charge the battery).

If the belt timing is not correct, it will show up in a cylinder compression check, as well as other mechanical problems.

it does start better with the carb wide open as a matter of fact. What should I do next?

I've gotten the thing to run for about 30 seconds a couple of times now just by keeping the gas pedal to the floor. I change3d the oil and oil filter. The oil feels too thin and smells faintly of chemicals.. maybe gasoline.. I looked in the radiator and there is no oil in there.

You may want to take a fuel sample, to see what the gasoline looks like.

Occasionally the piston rings can be washed down by gasoline causing low compression.

Was there smoke when it was running, any thick black smoke?

no black smoke, just a tiny bit of whiteish smoke. it only ran for about 20-30 seconds though. looks like the muffler was/is loaded with water, and a fine black powder which could possibly be soot from burning oil I guess.

I put heet in the gas this morning. I poured some into a babyfood jar and it looks pretty normal, nothing is separating out.

Okay, try a cylinder compression test. Call your local Autozone or Advance Auto, they should have a compression gauge as part of their tool loaner program. Let me know the results.

Had to buy a compression gauge, no one around here will loan a gauge.. but they all sell them. I got an el cheapo for 10 bucks at harbor freight.

All cylinders built up pressure at about the same rate, and they all topped off at about 100psi

I believe you have a head gasket gone or a cracked block check for fluid loss in the engine do a radiator compression check

Is 100PSI too low for this tiny little engine? The test was with dry cylinders, I didn't pour any oil into them or anything. There was no water in the oil and no oil in the radiator.. I'm not sure how to compression test a radiator, especially if the car won't run.

do a leal down test to see if water level is leaving the radiator.
There is a connection that you can buy to attach to the radiator a cap and hose, you put air pressure into the cooling system and test for a leak

1989 Toyota Tercel Engine   

I just did a tune up with conventional parts-plugs, wires, rotor cap and new rotor. My car still runs very rough and is missing, especially when it is cold. I suspect I need to time it again?, but don't know what the timing specs are. A mechanic also told me that the valves may need to be reset? Where do I start checking to aleviate this miss? This car has approx. 122,000 miles on it.
Thanks, L.Daily greywolf01@hotmail.com

The Tercel has adjustable valves. When they are too tight, it will idle poorly. Setting the timing is more likely to increase power/efficiency on the road.

Timing specs: 3 Degrees BTDC With manual transmission

*Set at warm idle speed (700 RPM)
*Distributor vacuum hose disconnected & plugged
*Transmission in neutral (parking brake engaged)
*All accessories off

Valve lash specs should be on the underhood label, along with the timing specs...or in your owners manual. I believe they are to be set cold, 5 thousandths on the intake and 7 thousandths on the exhaust.

What does BTDC mean? I'm an amateur. Also, this car has the automatic transmission-what are the timing specs for this?
Should I also check compression and what are the acceptable standards? Is there anything at all else I should check such as carburation (Kit or cleaned?)
Thank you very much-
L. Daily

BTDC means Before Top Dead Center.
Do you have timing light? You will need one to set the timing. Did you find the under hood label for the tuneup specs? It should have the details for the automatic, or I can look it up when I get back to my shop. Is your problem at idle, or is it misfiring all the time? Do you have a shop manual, like Haynes or Chilton? It will give an amateur all the details for each kind of job. Your problem could be the carburetor, you can try adding a little fuel, or making a vacuum leak. If it runs better either way, then the fuel mixture is wrong and you have carburetor issues.

Cool. I will check the under the hood specs and let you know if I find them. The car misses and just plain runs rough for at least a half hour going down the road until it warms up. Then it runs better but still not good by a long shot. It also kills easily until it warms up and then has a problem restarting if it is still cold. (It always starts pretty easily initially). On the restart, I have to hold the foot feet down to keep it going, like flooded slightly.

It acts like you sort of have to clear the gas out of the throat to get it running again, and like it is just hard to get it to fire again on the restart-then once it gets going, it will run again, but not smoothly. Have to crank it alot on the restart.

Maybe you should first check the spark. Sometimes the coils on these cars can act like this. Get an ST-125 HE spark tester (or equivalent) and check the spark to the spark plugs. IF it jumps the gap on each wire, your ignition system passes the test. If the ignition passes, then your description sounds like a carburetor problem. If you are brave, you could tackle rebuilding it yourself, but I would suggest getting a carburetor specialist to work on it for you.

1987 Toyota Tercel Fuel System Chugging When driving When warm 

My '87 4-speed Tercel starts shuddering, losing power when driving and its warm. Generally, increasing speed above 50mph will settle it out and run better but not lately. Engine will quit when it idles waiting to warm up. Also diesals sometimes when turning off.

When was the last tune-up?

Is the idle high? If it is this can cause the dieseling, if not the problem is mostly likely from excessive combustions temperatures. If a tune-up is not severely needed start by checking the timing.

Use the following link to access a repair guide-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1987 Toyota Tercel Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm 

The battery requires a jump to start. once the engine is warm, the warning lights for the E-brake, charge, and temp lights come on, but will dim while accelerating. Turning on the headlights results in a noticeable decrease in power.

I would strongly suspect the Alternator is not charging. Assuming that the alt belt and wiring is ok, I would test the Alt output.If you do not have diagnostic tools, a screwdriver can be used in a pinch. At the rear of the alt is a bearing in the center.When the car is running, hold the blade of the screwdriver against the bearing (stay away from moving parts and wiring)
An alternator that is charging will produce a strong magnetic pull against screwdriver. A weak or no magnetic pull will usually mean a weak or dead alternator.
Hope this is usefull.
Bruce

I used a voltmeter to test the alternator. When the warning lights are off, I got 14.5 volts. When they were on, I only got 12.5. I drove it for 15 minutes on the freeway with no problems, but then after exiting and driving for about 3 minutes, the warning lights came on again. Prior to this, the car sat for 6 months, and the only other thing that's unusual is how cold it has been. Could it be the voltage regulator?

Could be the voltage reg, some have them built into the Alternator.The voltage should not drop to 12.5 with lights on, usually when a higher load put on Alternator, the reg causes the charge rate to go up to compensate.
I am not sure if they do it where you live, but the Midas here provides a free Charging test here, where they test also the battery.

1986 Toyota Tercel All Part Groups   

Oops! After having done it correctly for decades, I reversed the terminals when getting a jump start for a stone-cold-dead battery. I fried the fusible link coming from the battery, which I "patched" as a temporary measure... but my electrical system is still dead, with the exception of headlights. I checked every fuse I could find, and now that I've borrowed a 12v power supply maybe I'll further test the "main" relay in the under-hood fuse box... though the resistance across the coil was 73 ohms-- definitely in the "ballpark"-- according to the "autoshop 101" tutorial "understanding relays".
Anyway... where else should I look /what else should I look at?
L.A. doesn't have the "worst" public transit system in the world, but it isn't exactly fast.

Thanks so much for your assistance!

Wayne Kleinschmitt

Wayne
I remember the good old days when I bought a '63 Impala that the previous owner put a battery in BACKWARDS! I did not realize this until later when I tried to install an 8 track tape player (kept eating tapes!)
I do not know how the car ran those few months!
Anyhow, back to your own problem...If it were me, I would run a new temporary wire from the batt to fusebox.Bypassing a relay as also a viable test scenario. Then if things started lighting up, I would test circuits, one at a time.What worries me most is the electronic distributer stuff! Might have to be replaced as it might be 'fried'If you can get your hands on a HAYNES SHOP MANUAL they have detailed wiring diagrams.
Public transit? I fall asleep on busses!

Bruce:
You could have been more specific when you said to "run a new temporary wire from the batt to fusebox" [sic] but I eventually figured it out.
When I ran a two-alligator-1-wire jumper from B+ to the plug which takes the suspect "main" relay's # 4 pin, lights lit up & the starter cranked... which eliminates damage to the neutral start switch as a cause. I was gonna crank it again later & see if I got 'spark' once my battery was charged a bit more, but I spaced out & apparently turned off the switch supplying AC to the 2-amp power supply... thus, undoubtedly draining the battery again.
With B+ to the aforementioned relay plug, I get no brake light, but I get signal lights... I get no radio (but one unknown wire is disconnected, so that might not be relevant). Horn & headlights never stopped working.
Though it passed more tests, I switched the suspect "main" relay with the A/C relay next to it (identical configuration & part/serial numbers) to no avail.
As for split-half testing circuit-by-circuit, I somehow have to figure out which wires are which & relate them to the schematic.... not as easy as with now-antiquated printed circuit boards.
You recommended Haynes, but I have a Chilton, which gives me a schematic for the engine & a schematic for the chassis. Does Haynes have the complete multi-page "EWD" with all the diagrams showing WHERE the wires are in relation to the rest of the car?
From what I've read on different message boards (none dealing with the problem on an '84-6 Tercel or a '63 Impala, though) the story about your "cheby" - a classic lowrider vehicle - working with a backwards battery seems kind of unlikely -- but in theory, many components 'wouldn't know the difference', so to speak. Did your 8-track malfunction when the engine was running?
Re: buses, [yes, one 's' - English spelling is complicated, but thank God we don't use something like Kanji!]-- How one can fall asleep on an urban-suburban transit bus is beyond me! The other day, some gangbangers boarded through the back & had apparently targeted some pudgy lookin' dude -- who shoulda' looked more worried than he did-- for a thrashing, until everyone started yelling "get the f*¢{ off the bus!"...(The sound level musta' been 100dB.
The other night, goin' to visit my ex-, I switched seats closer to these three hot babes who started exchanging glances & whispering... probably wondering what this old white guy was doin' moving his seat closer. Maybe not.
Of course falling asleep on a Bus can delay one's trip by several hours or leave one stranded entirely. L.A. doesn't run buses 24-7 like S.F., N.Y..
Anyway, Thanks for your cogent advice! It was good to see the dash all lit up & to hear the starter cranking!
As for the "computer", I think www.siaelec.com would sell me an ECM for $180.

Live Long & Prosper,

Wayne Kleinschmitt

"always remember -- just 'cause you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they're NOT tryin' to mess with ya'!"

Wayne
Old white guy and threee hot babes is a recipe for disaster, unless you have lots of Viagra ha ha!
The low battery might be a problem as most electronics require a good voltage supply.
From my experience, the only shop manuals that have 'location specific' wiring diagrams are the factory shop manuals and they are much dinero ($$$) if you can find one.
You are on the right track, but remember wiring takes some time and patience.
The '63 ran fine as it had point type ignition and no electronics. Tape deck did not work hooked up backwards, just 'ate' tapes.Thats when I discovered the backwards battery connection.
Years later when I was working in a shop, a customer came in with a battery charged backwards.The bosses solution: hook a headlight to it till it was completely discharged, then properly recharge.
Up here we do not get too many gang bangers on the bus (they drive Mercedes?) but I woud probably toss them off!

Bruce:
With a totally dead battery, I hooked the terminals up backwards. I got no "sparks flying" when I did so, undoubtedly because the battery was very discharged. When I attempted to start the car, nothing happened, except smoke rising from the general area where the fusible link burned.

If you look it up on the web, you'll probably learn that in an '86 Tercel dlx five-door with a 3AC engine (I think) the ignition has an electronic timing module (no need for a timing light & the distributor can't be rotated) and it uses an old-fashioned mechanical rotor.

As for the factory shop manual, I could probably order one written in English from Japan -- or wherever the Japanese "outsource" their printing -- or perhaps stop by a nearby Toyota dealer, but it might cost ¥10,000 - ¥20,000.


In the meantime, I've found some more fusible links on the schematic, but finding them in the car itself might be a real b¡+¢#.

Thanks for the advice.
Live Long & Prosper,

W----
"always remember -- just 'cause you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they're NOT tryin' to mess with ya'!"

Bruce --

I guess I won't have to test every single connection circuit-by-circuit!

After charging the battery more, I got the engine to actually start with the "main" relay (NOT shown on the schematic) bypassed. I put on the emergency brake & put it in reverse so I could see if I had backup lights - but as soon as I did, my Tercel died & the electric system shut down almost completely (except for the "battery" light on the dash. It wouldn't crank.

I was gonna check all the fuses the next day, but as I was about to do so, I decided to test the the fusible link I had "patched".

It hadn't held up, & when I went to re-patch it, I found neither the copper wire nor most of the solder I had used, so I figured that the wire was too narrow & had burned up. I patched it with two of that same guage of wire, conected it with lots of solder. & let the battey charge using the 12v power supply overnight.

The next day it started.... I shut off the engine & noted that everything SEEMED to be working, including my overhead light, my backup light, (I need a new "center" brake light bulb) etc.

I got it to start with the A/C relay and the original "main" relay.

BEFORE YOU CONCLUDE THAT THE PROBLEM IS "SOLVED", HOWEVER...

After about ½ minute of "fast idle", the engine speed became erratic, going from fast idle to "slow" idle, almost dying, returning to "fast" idle, and back to slow idle, dying after a minute or so.

After each subsequent attempt to re-start the engine, it ran for shorter & shorter intervals before dying. Eventually, it would only stay running with my foot on the accelerator at a fairly high RPM, maybe twice that of "fast" idle.

When Toyotas are way overdue for a tune-up (at least that happened once with a Corolla I owned)they go from running smoothly one day to idling rough & dying at stop-lights the next -- but the engine performance doesn't deteriorate THAT much from one day to the next.

Assuming it has to do with a damaged electrical components or a fuse pertaining thereto, what could be causing it to not idle correctly & then to only run with the accelerator depressed at high RPM? Taking five-to-ten times as long to get everywhere is beginning to drive me "up a tree".

Thank you so much for your good advice... I hope you can share your automotive wisdom regarding this problem SOON.

Thanks!

Wayne

Sounds likke a 'multiple' problem. Those are tough.
You have to check a few more basice, vacuum leaks, plug condition and dist cap/rotor condition.Tighten all the screws on the carb, carefully check the vacuum hoses,
These multiple problem scenarios are always tough, like having a tire with three holes.

Well..... I still suspect something electrical.

I have played with it some, and have learned that as long as I don't pull the accelerator cable & it stays in "fast idle", it runs smoothly. So I am trying to find & check things like the Electronic Air Bleed Control Valve, Oxygen Sensors & Vacuum Switches.

However.... checking for vacuum leaks, a pitted rotor, fouled plugs, etc. IS a good idea.

Thanks for the advice!


Live Long & Prosper,

W----
"always remember -- just 'cause you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they're NOT tryin' to mess with ya' !!"

Bruce --

Sorry I haven't written in awhile.

All the relays in the under-hood fuse box checked out.

I am not sure if the alternator is working, though the "batt" / "alt" light doesn't come on.

A couple of weeks ago, before my PC crashed, I drove my Tercel about two miles, after inspecting the rotor
(AOK), cleaning & re-gapping the [badly fouled] plugs, & increasing the curb idle ¼ turn.

When I turned off the engine, briefly, it dieseled.

When I got it back home, it was overheated, despite the fact that the radiator fan seems to work.

Any suggestions?

I look forward to hearing from you soon.

Live Long & Prosper,

W----
"always remember -- just 'cause you're paranoid, it
doesn't mean they're NOT tryin' to mess with ya' !!"
Bruce --

Sorry I haven't written in awhile.

All the relays in the under-hood fuse box checked out.

I am not sure if the alternator is working, though the

"batt" / "alt" light doesn't come on.

A couple of weeks ago, before my PC crashed, I drove my

Tercel about two miles, after inspecting the rotor

(AOK), cleaning & re-gapping the [badly fouled] plugs,

& increasing the curb idle ¼ turn.

When I turned off the engine, briefly, it dieseled.

When I got it back home, it was overheated, despite the

fact that the radiator fan seems to work.

Any suggestions?

I look forward to hearing from you soon.

Live Long & Prosper,

W----
"always remember -- just 'cause you're paranoid, it

doesn't mean they're NOT tryin' to mess with ya' !!"

Turning up the idle speed can cause diesellind and or run on.
Badly foul;ed plugs mean, you should do a compression test. Wet and Dry .

Okay... It ran well enough today (3/4 mi) that I think I could lower the idle speed without it dying....

I have never done, nor do I know how to do a compression test.

Also, the idle is still a little rough & there still may be some problem caused by my having applied power to the system with battery terminals reversed.

Thanks!

W-----

Bruce --
Can something else cause fouled plugs?

1) My Tercel has 87000 miles on it, but it passed 'smog' 6000 miles ago [I gottat get it 'smogged' again in a couple of weeks] & I've changed oil at least twice.... So I doubt that my compression suddenly went downhill. Nevertheless, I could probably buy a compression gauge & see if anything's amiss.

2) After driving 2 miles, no dieseling.... but it died a couple of times when my foot was off the gas.

3) To see if the alternator was charging the battery, I let it idle for 10 min. after I got home (no, it didn't diesel when I shut off the engine initially).

4) When I to check on my idling vehicle, it was steaming/overheated.... and it did diesel when I shut off the engine.

5) When I added antifreeze, I noticed coolant leaking from a "gash" in the reservoir at the top of the radiator, toward the engine, 3/4" below the cap & just to the right (passenger side), 3" long x ¼" wide.... (!) I have NO clue about its origin/etiology. [I got me some JB ("Industro-")-Weld & patched it. It's still curing. [Aside: The top portion of the radiator not only contains no iron/steel, but plenty of probing with an ohmmeter leads me to believe it's not even metal...is that possible?]

I have tentatively concluded that the dieseling & overheating are not part of the same symptom cluster as the rough idle, & that they are almost certainly not related to the battery voltage reversal.

Thanks so much for your advice!

Live Long & Prosper,

Wayne

"Always remember, just 'cause you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they're NOT tryin' to mess with ya'!! "