VW Jetta

2007 VW Jetta Ignition System   

Hello I have a 1992 VW jetta. It will sometimes starts. I have replaced the coil, the wires, the plugs, the ignition control module the distributor, and the cap. I will only start once in a while I dont want to replace eerything else. What could it be. I can go a week with it working fine, then it will start acting up again.

You need to check to see if you have spark and fuel pressure during the no start period. You have pretty well covered the ignition system, confirm spark and then check fuel pressure. Also listen for the fuel pump to see if it is operating during the no start period (it will run when you initially turn the key on and during engine cranking).

Thank you. I assumed I had spark but infact did not. I checke all the wireing to find a broke crimp at the coil. Of course I had to check the fuel pump first and it was fine. It runs like a champ again. Thanks again

2007 VW Jetta Engine   

I had to drain the coolant to replace a seal on the oil cooler.After I fixed that I filled it back up with coolant but it keeps blowing it out of the coolant bottle.I have checked the water pump ,its fine.I replaced the thermostat and fan switch sensors.I thought it was air in the system but it just keeps doing it over and over.

Hello, What size engine please? What series Jetta?

Roger

I sure hope that I dont get charged for that reply.
Dan Weber

Dan, To get started trying to answer your question I asked for the series Jetta you drive and the engine size. Then I would know how to proceed with correct information in a repair data base.

If you no longer want help that I could provide please advise. I am not the one who charges you and never see your personal information. I answer questions. If you accept an answer that a provider on this site offers that is the time you will be charged.

To withdraw your question please write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and make your request known.

Roger

Roger,It is a 1998 Jetta GL 2.0L

This question posted as a 2007 VW Jetta. I am glad for the clarification of year and series. Procedures differ.

May I send you the draining/refilling coolant file for this model? Too much to type and has pics too. I'll need your email address or a fax number to send the file to after I download and scan it.

Will that help?

Roger

Roger,
Yes I would greaty appreciate that.
Thanks,Dan Weber

I'll need your email address or a fax number to send the file to after I download and scan it.

Roger

Roger,my email is [redacted] and fax#is [redacted]
Thanks Dan Weber

Thank you. I'll try the email first. If there are quality issues please let me know and I will fax as well.

Roger

Dan, Please review the information I have sent and advise any inadequacy.

Thanks,

Roger

2005 VW Jetta Fuel System   

My car will be running fine and then it will stop accelerating, and die down then when I floor it, it will jerk back up to speed for a sec like nothing happened, then die back down and stall out if it gets too low. It sounds fine and runs well when it's not having this issue. It seems to do it more when its hot, but it can go days without anything happening then it will happen all of a sudden. I thought it was gas first, then I thought it was my oil but it wasn't. Thinking it could be electrical shorting out?

Electrical unlikely.
If oil level very low
maybe.If water in gas
probably.That will
show up if the fuel
level lower but will
not be noticable when
full.Most VW's have a
drain plug in tank.Take
small sample of gas.Pour
on sheet of brown cardboard.
Gas will immediately soak in,
water will sit on top.Or drain
it all and try fresh gas.

I had it at a shop when it did it last and they said it wasn't the oil or gas. He said he didn't hear anything funny that it would be oil, plus i had just put in 2.5 q of oil. And it has been happening on and off for 3 months so gas is unlikely. I was told maybe the fuel lines or something.

Adding 2.5 qts tells me it is either burning oil or leaking. If no leaks, do a compression test and fresh plugs. Might answer a few questions.

2003 VW Jetta All Part Groups  Happens sometimes No pattern

While in cruise control the speed will randomly and drastically increase as if I slammed on the gas. After this happens it will continue to happen anytime the car is in cruise for the duration of that trip. The speedometer also floats when this happens. The last time it happened the speedometer would not read beyond 50mph even when not in cruise control. I was told it was the speed sensor but was confused after doing some light research.

Yes. The cruise control Module could cause your problem Also The cruise control and the speedometer are related. I suggest that you check and see if there is a loose connection or an unplugged wiring loom
Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system. The computer will store any fault or error codes. Having it scanned will retrieve these codes and pinpoint the malfunctioning component
I hope this helps
Macconneck

2003 VW Jetta Fuel System   

My 2003 vw jetta GLX VR6 2.8L won't start after I have driven it for more than a few minutes. The car will start cold just fine but after it's warm from driving it will turn over but not fire. The dealership wanted to charge $1200 to replace the catalytic converter but I did it myself for about $300. There is an exhaust leak at the exhaust clamp so I will need to replace the clamp but I believe the fuel system is causing the warm start problems. Any ideas before I take it back to the dealer?

Hello,

Does the Check Engine (MIL) light come on at anytime while the car is running? If it is this may help in diagnosing the problem. Call your local Autozone or Advance Auto and see if they read the trouble codes (free of charge) in you area (most do). Let me know which alphanumeric codes they find (e.g. - P0300, P0401).

A catalytic converter really has to be plugged to cause a no-start. In this situation the engine will also lack power the more the car is driven. It literally will choke the engine to a stop.

Misinterpreting the catalytic converter as the problem all but warrants incompetence or flat out fraud.

Do you experience any power loss at anytime while the engine is running? If yes it is possible there is still an exhaust restriction that was misdiagnosed as a restricted converter. With the engine warm the exhaust will begin to glow from excessive heat... use caution around hot engine parts and never get under the hood or body with the engine running.

Do you have a multimeter? If yes, measure the ohms of the crankshaft position sensor when the engine is cold (or will start). Then quickly measure it again when the engine won't start (if it tests okay again, plug it back in immediately and try to restart the engine, just in case it started working again). An open or shorted sensor is bad. If the crank sensor is bad you will lose spark and fuel (the computer sees no 'Engine is Cranking' signal so has no reason to turn on the fuel).

It may take a bit of back and forth but we have a fair chance of finding the problem without a high end scan tool (as the Dealer has).

Also note if there is ever black smoke from the exhaust and/or the smell of gasoline in the oil. This would indicate an excessively rich fuel mixture.

No lights come on, I did have the epc light on until I changed a brake light and tail light last night. The converter apparantly was clogged and needed to be replaced but the mechanic wasnt sure if that was the underlying cause of my car failing when warm. Before I replaced the converter the car would run fine until I slowed down close to an idle then it would start to drop in rpm and stall, if I tried to go above 2000rpm it would act as if it was in neutral so I would shut the car off and try to restart it but it wouldnt fire until i let it sit for a good 15-30 min. Since replacing the converter I dont have the same problem while i'm driving and going to a lower speed but the car won't start after Ive driven for a while unless I let it cool. I have also noticed the car shift rougher than before especially when going to 3rd.

Okay check the crank sensor and for signs of a rich fuel condition and get back to me.

Also try unplugging the MAF the next time it won't start. Will it start then? You may need to feather the gas pedal to get it to start as this is a major sensor.

2002 VW Jetta Engine   

i have a 2002 jetta 1.8t gls i change the timing belt and now the timing is off , i line the marks on the cam and valve cover but dont have any lines on the crank but two paint lines and a yellow mark on the crank and cover , but tryed that and all i get is on pop , please help

Did the timing belt break? I think these are interference engines, meaning bent valves are likely if the timing belt breaks (or is installed incorrectly).

Alway turn the engine over by hand several revolutions to make sure the pistons and valves do not collide.

To find the correct timing mark on the crank pulley-- put the number one piston at top dead center, and one of the marks should be very close now.

No the timing belt did not break and the engine still spins really , the engine has 92 thousand miles so i figured it was time before it broke ,ihave a manual telling me that i should look at the torque coverter and line up a mark in the window , dont have a clue where to look , and there are no marks on the flywheel teeth, is there a way that timing before tdc,

any ideas

Look on the top of the transmission housing for the access window.

2001 VW Jetta All Part Groups Hesitating When starting When cold

I start engine, step on clutch, put into 1st gear, let up on clutch and give it gas, the whole car vibrates. It either doesn't move or goes a few feet, engine slows down and stalls. I give it more gas and doesn't feel as if fuel is getting thru, it doesn't rev, and slowly sputters then stalls. I restart and it jerks forward when I try to drive. Then jerks/hesitates when I shift into 2nd or 3rd, and try to give it gas. After driving a bit, it doesn't do it as much, but still feels as if fuel isn't getting thru.
Another thing is last month or so, if I have heater on full blast and I slow to yield or stop while in a turn, the battery light comes on and car stalls. The only way to not make it stall is to rev engine and not have it in gear or clutch pedal pushed down.
For over a year I've had this problem but dealership cannot figure out what is causing it. It happens even if I let the car warm up before driving.
Check Engine light comes on and off. Dealership has replaced the past year - fuel ignition coil, coolant temp sensor, mass air flow sensor, evap. emissions canister purge, charge air cooler, and pressure hose. Not sure if any of these were related, because problem still occurs. These were all replaced after they did diagnostics, because check engine light is on. Today they cleaned grinds and it appears to drive smoother. But I will see if tomorrow when I start, it does the same thing.
Any idea what this might be?
Also, for past 2 years they have been giving me oil changes and used 5w30 ($30-$35). Then this week, I had oil change and it was $55. I asked why the high price and was told that because I have Turbo engine I need a different kind of oil. They switched to 5w40. My manual says to use 5w40. Was using 5w30 bad for car? Why would they change it all the sudden?
Thanks

Hi;
Sounds like the dealership has put you on a round a round. You never mention if they checked fuel pressure? You have a good case to find you a lawyer and go after the 3 strike rule. Don't know what satet you are from, but they only get three chances to either fix it or not charge for it. Using used oil on a turbo can cause damage to the engine. I would check my local laws. also talk to the district rep of the dealership. Any more questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks Les.

Check engine light came back on again, just now as I ran a quick errand! I will call dealership tomorrow morning and ask if they have checked the fuel pressure since none of my invoices mention they did that. Everything was covered under warranty except for coolant temp sensor. BUT my warranty expires next week, which worries me!! I believe it is too late for me to go for Lemon Law since I bought 2 years ago, but I will definately try to get in touch with the regional VW rep. I have contacted VW corp helpline about this situation, but they were no help.
One thing that seemed really shady was that the tech wanted to keep my car over the weekend and drive around to experience the hesitation/stalling since they can't replicate it when I bring it just for a day.
I don't know if they are using used oil, just that they switched from 5w30 to 5w40 suddenly, which seemed odd to me. Why tell me my car needs 5w40 when they've been using 5w30 all along? ACK!
I'm considering just trading it for a different make of vehicle when they turn check engine light off, so fed up with car and dealership.
Plus I found out tonight while tracing VIN # that car was manufactured in Mexico, but was told my VW salesman that this special edition Wolfsburg was one of 2500 imported from Germany!!!

Hi;
Sounds like lemon law time. Don't matter how long you have had the car. If they did the repairs under warranty or charged you for it! Taking To Court!!!!! The Rep is not working with you. Check your owners manual, there should be a 1-800 number on it. Give it a call. Les.

2001 VW Jetta Ignition System Stalling When idling Always

My 1.8turbo has always had a rough idle. The check engine light comes on for a random mis-fire. The VW dealer said that their is a recall for the coils.
changed all four, problem still their. The car does not pull 100%. It seems that an injector may be at fault since the only code again comes up as
random misfire. Changed out all four injectors, problem still their. The only code that comes other that random misfire was a O2 sensor reading to lean? The car when cold does not want drive. You can not give it any acceleration. You have to wait alittle for it to warm up. When hot the car idles between 500=1000 almost wanting to stall. On the highway trying to accelerate the car will not pull. Turbo,vaccum lines,exhaust,blow off valve,coils,injectors are good or new. The temperture runs at 190 when hot and does not get any hotter. So, I lost.
Please help

You have 2 codes, and symptoms that all point the same direction. Engines running lean set lean codes, random misfires, idle rough, and have low power. The first place to check is for vacuum leaks. (sounds like you did that already) Next we need to look at what may cause all cylinders to be lean. Most likely causes are Mass Air sensor or low fuel pressure. You should find your problem there.
Sterlingfixer

Can low fuel pressure be random. One day O.K. and next day poor running. I tryed to check fuel pressure but cannot find a tee or fitting for a fuel pressure tester.

Usually fuel pressure is steady, but it can be eratic depending on what is causing the low pressure. You will need to split the line under the hood, or T in at the fuel filter to test.

2001 VW Jetta Engine Malfunction When driving Always

Hello, I am getting engine codes p 0321 and P1296. I am pertty sure the 0321 is referring to the rpm sensor. I was wondering where it was. And I think the 1296 is a bad temp sensor. Any help would be great. Thanks!

The car is a 01 Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg andI have engine code aww.
It has a rough idle and sometimes it won't start or dies while driving. Thanks

P1296 Cooling system malfuntion or coolant temperature sensor shorted to B+.
p0321- Engine speed sensor fault.

Most common causes are a bad sensor for each of these faults. Either sensor could cause stalling.

Ok, I found the temp sensor but I can't seem to find the rpm sensor. Thanks

It bolts into the lower part of the block to pick up the rpm from the crankshaft. It is held in with one bolt and has a foot long wire to a white connector (2 or 3 pins)

2001 VW Jetta Fuel System Stalling When accelerating When cold

When the engine is cold the motor will not accelorate. Whether in or out of gear. I can put the throttle all the way to the floor and it just sits and gasps, and won't go over about 1500 RPM's. If I open the air box and 3/4 cover the inlet tube to the intake, it revs just fine no poblem. It has a fresh tune up. I checked the Mass air flow sensor, that is not it. While checking it out, if I unplug the throttle position sensor, it does not change. Could the TPS be bad?

it is a 2001 with a 2.0 4cyl. automatic.

Check the fuel filter, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator to make sure they are all functioning properly. Also, check the catalytic converter to make sure they are not plugged

It couldn't be the cat because it only does it when it is cold, it is not back pressure that is choking it. It is as if it is getting too much air, or doesn't know how much air it is getting. I can hold my hand over the air tube to the intake before the mass air flow sensor and about 3/4 cover the tube and it will rev just fine. I replaced the Mass air flow sensor but without change. But if I pull the inlet tube off of the intake it kills it immediately, when the air is not going through the mass air flow sensor.

how did you check mass air flow im just about positive either the sensor is bad or a wiring problem to sensor

did you find the problem

Someone else seems to have got it.

what do you mean

2001 VW Jetta Ignition System   

My 01 Jetta has a very intermittent no-start problem. The car runs and drives fine otherwise. Periodically I cannot start the car. I will turn the key off and try again and again with no luck. The ninth or tenth time it will fire with no other problems from then on, until it is shut off again. The next time whether cold or hot, 1 minute later or ten minutes later, it may or may not start. It recently had a MAF Sensor replaced, which cured the typical symptoms.

Is the starter cranking the engine without any problem, but the engine does not start?

If this is the case, you'll need to check for spark during the no start period. Possible crank sensor failure.

I will assume the MIL (check engine) light is coming on, as it normally does, when the problem occcurs. This indicates the PCM (computer) is powered up.

If you have a check engine light at anytime the engine is running you'll need to have the trouble codes scanned.

Hi Doug, It had a 605 code which it had set before this problem started, but after the new maf sensor went in. I forget what that is, but I will check tonight and let you know tomorrow. I had suggested that I thought it was the crank sensor also, but ran out of room and deleted that part. I will also check for spark, but I am thinking that it definietely will not have it. All it does is crank smoothly and strong. Acts like absolutely no spark at all. Doug

On board diagnostics don't often catch the crank sensor.

Let me know what you find.

I re-scanned this morning and still is the PO 605 code. Where is the Crankshaft sensor located on my 01 Jetta and how can I test it further?

Doug

The simplest way to test is with an ohmeter. Take ohm readings of the sensor (unplug the connector and take reading between the pins) when the car will start and compare them to the reading you get when the car will not start (if the readings are the same- the car needs to not start before and after testing to rule out the sensor).

The following link contains an image of the crank sensor, 2.0L engine (if you have another engine it is likely very similar). Copy and Paste the link into your Address Bar-

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/sta/sn4088.jpg

Well, I purchased a Crankshaft Sensor for the 01 1.8T Jetta and found that is seems to not have one.!? I figured having the part would help, but cannot locate it anyplace. I consulted the owner's mannual and then a shop manual, both without finding any mention of a Crankshaft Sensor. Can you see if you can find out for sure if it has it and where? I also noticed that the car will consistenly not start when the "EPC" light does not illuminate when the key is first turned to on .

Okay, if you have the shop manual this will have the information you need.

Does this engine have a distributor (if it does with one coil, the coil could be bad)? If it does, it may have a hall-effect sensor inside the ditributor. The shop manual may call the part a crank/cam sensor, hall-effect sensor, pick-up coil, or rpm sensor.

I'll check for more information if you need me to, but I cannot beat the actual shop manual.

2001 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

I have a 2001 Jetta. Shortly after I bought the car the check engine light appeared due to some sort of emmissions issue. About the same time, the car began randomly not starting from time to time. I had the car serviced, the light turned off. The car stopped the wierd random not starting. Now the light is on again, and the car has started randomly not starting again. It's been two years. The dealership says they don't know whats wrong. They have tried diagnostics, a new battery, and wiring issue with the doors which they thought was pulling on the battery at night causing it to go dead. No luck. They say it is unrelated to the check engine light, but my gut says otherwise. The car will turn over briefly and then click click click. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks

Whenever I have a battery drain that is a mystery.I remove the battery cable and place a test light in series between the battery and the cable end. If there is a drain on the battery, the light will be on,
(key off)While watching the light, remove and replace the fuses, one at a time. You might even do the same with the plug in relays.Now, when the light goes out, you have found the offending circuit, and eliminated 95% of the wiring.
Pick up a copy of a HAYNES shop manual for your car.(abouy $15)They have a easy to read wiring diagram.Trace the wires an see if you can find a problem wire or...?
I have seen things like glovebox or trunk lights cause the battery drain problem. There are miles of wiring in your car, but if you narrow it down to one circuit, its not so bad.If you can read a roadmap, you can read a wiring diagram.

2001 VW Jetta Fuel System   

I had a diagnostics done on ,y car because epc light is on and they said it has cadilac

---

Bruce Kit -

If he says it requires catalyctic converter, it is quite possible as they do plug up, slowing the car down and resulting in poor fuel economy.

2001 VW Jetta Engine   

I am working on a 01 Jetta with the 30V V6. It has been to 3 other shops prior to me and still has the same problem. On cold starts, it idles VERY poorly, smells rich and "pops" back through the airbox. The only fault code is "engine misfire". It has had spark plugs and a fuel regulator replaced recently. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, Doug

Hi,

You may try the mass air flow sensor.
Regards,
Peter

Seems like that would throw a code.

Any other thoughts?

Hi,

I believe the mass air flow sensor does this problem.

Peter

Upon some more examination, it clears up after about 60-90 seconds of run time. It only does it when it is cold. I thought I could hear a vaccum leak prior to the engine starting to run correctly. Can't find a leak. Any idea of anything in the vaccum circut that could present this problem?

Hi,

If it is a vacuum leak this can be found after the engine warms up.You have to focus what parts function during warm up.
Mass air flow sensor it is one of the common problem with VW.Then you should check spark plugs wires resistance.It will indicate if ignition wires are ok.Ignition wires at fault can trigger a code "engine missfire".Also,intake manifold gasket leak can triger this code.And cylinder head gasket anti-freeze leak can trigger this code.You have to understand that "engine misfire" indicates that the ratio air/fuel mixture it is not 14.7 kg of air per 1 litre of fuel.On electronic automobiles it is adjusted electronically by ECM.Older cars was done by adjusting the carburetor.On "misfire" problem you have to do a throughly "investigatio".It requires experience.
Good luck.
Peter
ps: Auto technician for over 30 years.

Thanks, I was looking for something more specific, hoping someone had had the same problem with the same setup. I'll try the MAF sensor.
P.S. Tech for 35 years

You should be able to get a good deal on the MAF from the VW dealer. Most offer this at a discount price (it fails so often that they wish to keep the cost of owning their cars down-- for the journalists...). While possible, I'd be a little surprised if this is the MAF. It'd be just as quick to warm the sensor (low setting of heat gun, or a hair dryer).

Have you seen if it holds fuel pressure?

Will the engine smooth out quickly when revved?

Have you checked for flash updates?

2001 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

When I start the car the engine stutters, revolutions slow down and engine dies. Then I restart and push revolutions to about 3000 rpm and I can start the joy of driving. What needs to be checked or repaired?

Hello, Gas or diesel engine?

You may need a scanner to monitor sensor feedback. My first thought is about the coolant temp sensor accuracy. The engine may be getting a little too much fuel. Reving it up might be clearing it some.

Roger

Thanks Roger. It is a Gasoline engine 1.8 Turbo.

I've read through Technical Service Bulletins and don't see anything there for this condition.

Are you getting a check engine light?

Roger

The engine light comes on and goes off since many years. A diagnostic test was run recently and nothing was found.

Does the carburator or alternator have anything to do with it?

Your car should be fuel injected not carburated. And the alternator would not factor here.

Is it possible to drive by one of the national chain auto parts stores when the check engine light is on so they can read the codes? Most of these guys will do this for free. It will really give us an idea what to look at.

Roger

Well, there you go, Roger! You can see how much I know about cars.
Yes, I will get a reading and let you know about the code.
Andreas

When the check engine light comes on I hope you get the chance to have the codes read while the engine is still running. There is a possibility if you turn the engine off and restart the light might not come back on for awhile.

Make it easy on yourself. I'll wait for the codes.

Roger

Will do. Thanks for your help.
I'll be back with what I learnt.

Roger:
I went to AutoZone and had the test done.
The Code is P0172.
Test reveals that the fuel system for bank 1 was too rich.
Hopefully this helps to determine why the engine stutters after I turn it own and then dies unless I accelerate to about 3000 revolutions and keep it there in neutral for about 30 seconds before I can drive.
Andreas

All right Andreas. I'm thinking you will need professional help.

Code P0172 is Bank 1, fuel measuring system, system too rich.

Corrective action calls for:

Check fuel pressure regulator and holding pressure.
Check injectors.
Check tank venting valve.
Check oxygen sensor and oxygen sensor control before catalyst.

Sounds like you may have a fuel injector leaking fuel after the engine is stopped causing a very rich restart.

A fuel pressure leak down test would help identify this. With a fuel pressure guage connected the fuel rail should hold pressure for some time after the engine is stopped. If it leaks down too quickly a leaking fuel injector may be the cause.

It would be great if a good cleaning would let the injector close and seal. Hard to say.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Roger:
In the next couple of days I will bring my car to the garage and take with me your recommendation. I'll be glad to let you know what they do and what the results are.
Thank you so much for guiding me through this process.
It was quite a learning experience for me and you were wonderful.
Thank you.
Andreas

I'll be looking to hear what happened.I'm interested and I'll be here. I do hope you will follow up.

Roger

Will do. You have been most helpful.
Thanks again.
Andreas

Roger:
I gave the car for the repair. They kept it for two days and checked all, found an leaking connector or cable and replaced it. Test drove the car and said everything is ok.

Fine. Except after two days the engine stalled again in the morning but drives beautifully once revved up and rolling. The pattern is that one morning the engine turn on nicely and the next morning the engine dies off, sometimes three times.
Today the engine stopped on me when I rolled onto a stoplight.
Looks like preety soon I am getting myself a new car.
Andreas

Will the repair shop warranty the repairs they did for you? You have a right to take it back and get what you paid for.

Good business practices should be on your side, just ask.

Roger

Yes, they told me to bring it back if it does not work. And I will.
Since we are living in a small community, people have to be good to each other.
But thanks for reminding me.
Best regards, and thanks again for your help.
Andreas

If you need something further please ask. If not, please click on OK to finish up and that will close the question.

I thank you,

Roger

2001 VW Jetta Ignition System   

My car isnt starting when i let it sit over night, The engine dosnt even turn over when i turn the key. I have to push start the car. When i finally get it started it runs great. If i let the car idle for 10-15 mins then turn it off. It will start right back up. The longer the car sits the longer it has to turn over to start till the point where it does nothing if it sits long enough. Any help?

The first thing you need to do is have your battery tested. Most chain auto parts store test the battery free of charge, call ahead. Advance Auto, is at least one store, that will charge and test your battery free of charge.

If the battery is okay, you have something running the down the battery when the vehicle is off. This is called parasitic drain. Let me know what you find with the battery and we'll continue as necessary.

How old is the battery? Anytime after four or five years they usually time out without warning.

I will go have the battery tested, Also the battery is reading normal when i turn the key on even when the car dosnt do anything. The windows and lights still work fine.

Okay, let me know the results of the battery test so we can rule the battery out with certainty.

Well your a hell of alot better then the mechanics at the parts stores. I went and got it tested today and it came up with a battery drainage over and over. So they hooked it up to a bigger machine and it said bad cell. So i got a new battery and when i started it up i instantly noticed the difrence. It started up right away with no lag like it use to when i got it.

The battery had alot of leakage on it. All over the top and comming out of the seems down the sides. I just hope there isnt something in my car draining the battery and ruining them.

I appricate the help. Hope it stays running great and i woulnt have to come back here :P

2000 VW Jetta Engine Stalling When driving When warm 

The car is a late 1999 (effectively a 2000) 2.0 GLS with an automatic transmission.

The service history of the car includes replacement of air MFM, O2 sensor and recent routine maintenance (plugs, oil, all filters, etc). The mileage is ~ 62,000 miles.

Recently at highway speed (80-85 mph), car having run 30+ minutes, the car stalled for a few seconds, engine check light came on, but the car regained power and seemed to continue as normal. This occurred on a level section of highway, was not accelerating, with driver only and light baggage. The engine temperature was normal (90 oC reference line). The tank was filled with mid grade (typical fuel selection) ~ 200 miles prior.

Over the last 3 days there has been no repeat incidence, or indicator lights illuminated.

Please advise your thoughts on:

- likely possible causes
- how to diagnose the cause

I am regularly highway driving and want to avoid a more serious incident!

Thank you!

Roger

To diagnose, your only real hope is that a trouble code set, (if the check engine light is off now they need to look for a history or pending trouble code), that will point to the problem. Autozone and Advance Auto stores (there should be others, call ahead) will check these codes free of charge on all '96 and newer vehicles. It may be necessary to call ahead to see if their code reader will work with your VW (VW is a bit fussy).

The most likely causes are sensors required to run, eg- crankshaft/camshaft sensors. Especially in the case of a noticably instant stall (just as if you turned the key off).

Fuel pump or fuel pump circuit problem. As if you ran out of fuel.

Ignition switch problem. It would also give the same symptoms of turning off the key.

There are of course other causes that are possibilities- Water in the fuel reaching the engine and intermittent relays or fuses.

Thank you for your prompt reply.

Are you aware of any VW service, or warrantee, bulletins that relate to this problem?

From your experience what should, and what is, VW response to diagnostic work on this type of problem? Obviously, I don't want to pay for several shop hours and be empty handed. On the other hand, related service bulletins could result in a nearly free repair.

Thank you.

Roger

I am not aware of any bulletins/recalls/etc that pertain to your problem, this does not mean one does not exist.

If you visit VW dealer service they should check the bulletins for you. Recalls result in free repairs, service bulletins are wide open on price (but I understand what you said).

DO you have any outstanding recalls on the car? This would be a good chance for a face to face consultation with a dealer tech.

If you can find someone to check the trouble codes, that is where I recommend starting.

2000 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

My Jetta is automatic...Sometimes when I try to put my car on drive the gear is stuck it won't move. It just stays on Park..I can't move it down.

See if your brake lights are coming when it sticks. Take a look near the brake pedal arm and see if there is a switch out of adjustment. I am not familiar with the shift/lock mechanism on your car, but assume you need to press the brake before you can shift.

2000 VW Jetta Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When turning Always

When driving over 60 km and turning left, there is a vibration in the steering wheel...most prominate around 120 km. What could this be?

Jack the front of the car (LH) and check the wheel bearing.If the car is properly supported, check the Left CV axle for wear or looseness.If you notice a 'clicking' when making slow sharp turns then the axle at fault.
If you can safely support the front, so both tires are off the ground, set the park brake, start the car, put in gear, and observe the front tires for any wobble.
If you are suspicious of the condition of the tires, switch the front ones to rear and visa versa. If the problem is tires, the vibration might not go away, but will change.
120 kph? The speed limit here is 100 kph ! lol

2000 VW Jetta Heating / Cooling System   

I replaced the thermostat in my 2000 VW Jetta and now my air conditioner and heater doesn't work. Prior to the replacement of my thermostat both worked perfectly fine. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box to the left of the steering wheel, and the fuses on top of the battery. Both fans work fine under the hood, now that I replaced the thermostat my engine doesn't get hot. I just don't know what I need to do to fix my air conditioner? It has to be a fuse or a relay???? Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bobby
402-304-5580

How do you know your engine is not getting hot?

What temperature is the engine getting to?

Did you bleed the cooling system after thermostat replacement?

What is the nature of the failure:

The blower is not turning on?

Blower turns on but no air flow from vents?

Blower turns on with normal airflow, but temperature does not change (can't get hot or cold air?)

Douglas,

The blower inside the car doesn't come on at all. It doesn't matter if I want cold or hot air. The AC button doesn't light up either when I push it in. I called two different dealerships out of Houston, TX and they thought it was a fuse or relay?? When I replaced the thermostat, because of the angle, I had to unscrew a wire that was connected to the alternator. When I replaced the thermostat I reconnected that wire to the alternator. You should know that when I did this I didn't have the negative disconnected from the battery. So I don't know if I shorted something out and this is what caused the problem, or if it has nothing at all to do with it????

It could, hard to predict. Start by checking fuses, this is the mostly likel problem. Also recheck wire, and other wiring in the area to make it wasn't disturbed.

Could it be the AC Relay???

It is more likely that you are missing power.

The quickest way to test a relay is to swap it with another matching relay from the relay box (an accessory you can do without for test purposes.)

2000 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

under throttle over heats. changed thermostat did not fix. at idel run fine on temp. pressure checked engine turned out fine.

If the engine is overheating under load, there are several things ot look at:
-Poor radiator- this will often give the additional clue of the temperature rising after pulling off a highway exit.
-Poor water pump- this will often give the additional clue of poor heat from the heater when idling.
-Poor head gasket- this will often give the additional clue of excessive pressure buildup in the cooling system.

2000 VW Jetta Ignition System   

went to start the car after a short trip to the store, went in, came out 10 min. later, tried to start, a slow little blurp turnover, and then nothing at all.. I turn the key and nothing happens, no clicks no turn over, nothing, tried to jump, nothing, lights, windows, all work fine.

Hello
I would check all the fuses first (should show all fuses in your owners manual)
Check all the wires going and coming from the starter and battery.
Than I would check the starter to see if it went bad (you would have to take it off and have it checked at any autoparts store)
Than I would check the ignition switch if it all checked out ok.
If you had a ohm meter it could all be done easier but it probly take awile to find the problem.
To me it sounds like you arnt getting power to the starter I personally advise checking wires.
Heavychevy

.

2000 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline   

Recently experiencing problems with reverse in an automatic. Drive and other gears work fine. In reverse it will make an odd noise, like something not quite catching and hitting, NOT a grinding noise. Can occasionally get it to reverse if I keep shifting, but may stop reversing in the process and resume the noise.

These cars are famous for that condition at about 40,000 miles.
The dealership will tell you that all Jettas make that whinny noise in reverse a mild to loud clicking nois, so do not think anything of it at this time. Later if it starts to happening in other gears also, I will suspect that you have spun bearing, which will mean a transmission rebuild.
It would not hut to go to a transmission shop and have a tun up done and make sure that they change the filter.
Tell them ahead of time you want to look at the transmission oil pan so you can see just how much metal is sitting down there.
some shavings will be normal but an excessive amount of shavings means that you have teeth on your gears that are wearing and will need some attention.
I hope this helps

How did it go on your repair?
Was the information helpful?
if so let me know

Hi! Thank you so much, I meant to thank you earlier and update you, but on top of everything, some fence panels at Lowe's ended up on top of me and I've been recovering. You were absolutely correct, now $6000 (4500 for the tranny rebuild) later, the car is running just fine. The dealership said exactly what you said. You were spot on! Excellent diagnosis, and I truly appreciate you help and kindness! You are terrific, thanks for taking the time! Kindest regards, May

Sorry to hear about the accident but recovery is acually a good word in the end of such a situation
Glad to hear about that part.
Glad to hear about the repair also keep that warranty safe.
You are welcome Take care

Thank you very much for your kind words. Yes, I was very lucky with the fence panels. It easily could have ended very differently. I was fortunate at the VW dealership as well, they treated me very well. I had to have the car towed in pieces from Aamco, because Aamco wasn't being truthful with me--your reply tipped me off that something wasn't right with what they were saying, and the story changed daily. Aamco was an expensive mistake, but thanks to you I ended up in safe hands. :) What you are doing on this forum is a wonderful thing, and I for one certainly appreciate it. I wish you the very best, and hope the kindness you have shown to others on this site is returned to you ten fold.

Wow what you said was priceless
I fell much taller and apreciate as well as accept your gratitude.
Take it easy

I meant every word. You are a good person. Take care, the best to you always and keep up the great work! :) May

2000 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

How do you line up the timing marks for a 2000 Jetta 4 cylinder 2.0L engine?

Hello, Is the timing belt on the engine? Removed?

What is your email address please? I may need it to send you info that cannot be typed.

Roger

The belt is on the engine.

May I have your email address please?

Roger

Has this car been fixed? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Yes, when the belt broke it bent the intake valve and it had to be replaced.

[redacted]

I sent everything I could find on a 2000 Jetta 2.0L engine timing belt replacement as well as other engines shown in the same file.

Roger

Thanks

If that will do it for you please click on OK to finish up. That will close the question. If not finished, please advise.

Roger

2000 VW Jetta Interior Components   

While driving after a while the care shuts off on me. I gave the vehicle a tune up, change the ignition coil, but still the same problem. The check engine light remains on. I would drive for about ten minutes but after that io would place my foot on the gas pedal, the car would not rev and it would not starty up after awhile.

With the car stopping running and the check engine light coming on , I would take it to a parts place that offers a free diagnostic scan. There are many sensors in a computer controlled car and without a scan, one will be just guessing. If I was to make a guess, it could be the coolant temp sensor, or a crank position sensor or even the catalytic converter in the exhaust plugging up.
Get a scan, even if they charge a small amount for the service, then replace the part

2000 VW Jetta Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

My 2000 Jetta has had 4 brand new tires, front end alignment and new front brake pads. It sometimes still shakes when driving, what could cause that? The mechanic said the struts, wheel bearings and shocks are all good.

Hello, What kind of shaking are we talking about? Tire balance? Shakes when braking? Engine running rough?

You said "sometimes still shakes". Can you drive through the shaking by changing speeds?

Roger

There is no shaking while braking or drifting in neutral, mostly the vibrations occur when acclerating, it feels to be originated from the front passenger side of the vehicle, and recently the steering wheel has begun to start shaking as well.

Have the front half-shafts been looked at? Might be a bit of a bind in a CV Joint. How many miles on your car?

If acceleration is the key it is likely powertrain related. Motor mounts OK?

Roger

1999 VW Jetta Windows / Glass   Always

The front passenger side glass pain fell into the door as I was driving. I've taken off the door panel and found that a small white piece of plastic that holds the pain to the guide rails has broken and will not support the weight of the glass. Replacing the part is something I can probably do myself if I knew where to order it and could get my hands on a diagram of the door assembly. Some advice on this problem would be greatly appreciated.

hello sir
I had the same thing happen to me about a month ago.
I whent to the junk yard and had them to pull it for me.
This was after going from autoparts to autoparts trying to explain the part with no success
I just took the old part in to the junkyard with me
I hope this helps

Thanks for the tip. I have had similar problems trying to explain just exactly what it is I'm looking for. Did you run into any problems installing it once you had it in hand? Also, I was able to retrieve the broken pieces of the part without removing the inside door panel completely. The apolstered outside panel came off no sweat. I believe I removed all of the pertinent screws from the panel, but there still seemed to be some resistance to the panel coming off completely and exposing the glass behind it. Is there a trick to it, or am I just missing something?

yes it took me aa while to get the part lined up so it could push back on
patience is more the word the other resistence was pushing the door panel up before it would come off a trick I used was tto look up under the panel to see where it was being held up and I figured it out from there

1999 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline  When troubleshooting Always

SCAN TOOL WILL WORK IT SAY VOLT TOO HIGH TO DISCONNT

Hello, Do you mean to say that you would like to connect a scan tool but it says the voltage is too high and to disconnect the scan tool?

If this happens when the engine is running the alternator could be overcharging.

What is your question please?

Roger

volt on car is ok it look if data line have too volts

The data line cannot have more volts than the car's electrical system is producing.

What voltage reading do you get when you test the car battery?

What voltage do you find at the data link connector?

Roger

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

1999 VW Jetta Heating / Cooling System   

medium smell of antifreeze inside car. No leakage and no steamed windows. Temp guage is normal and was told to replace heater core///is this the correct solution or is there another less expensive route??

If you are smelling the antifreeze inside the car only, it needs to be a leak in the heater core, or attaching hoses. If there is no steamed windows or drippage, it is presently a small leak. Using a stopleak can also clog the heater core resulting in no heat, or the radiator, making problems next summer. The heater core can be bypassed cheaply, but then you will have NO heat.

are attaching hoses inside or out?

The attaching hoses are under the hood and attach right at the firewall. They can leak and make a smell on the inside, but usually it is the heater core.

1999 VW Jetta Ignition System   

when i turn the key,the car does nothing. the dash lights come on the radio and the locks work. but the windows do not work.the buttons on the key do not work, and inside the button for the gas tank works but not for the trunk. i just replaced the battery

you will first need to check for a loose connection at your starter.
That will be the main wire up to the battery.
Make sure that you clean the battery connections also where the wire terminates into it.
This will most likely take care of your problem.

I hope this helps

the conections are clean and tight. still nothing

Ok next thing to check is the connection to the starter fron the ignition switch.
There should be two connections at the starter, possibly 3 wires, two small gauge one piggybacking the other
From under the car check for 12 volts on the main starter lug, the large gauge wire to the chassis or engine ground.

Then check for 12 volts on the smaller terminal while the key is in the start position.
let me know what the results are

I had to take the car in this was to much for me, can you tell me how to get my money basck, my wife is very upset.

You can email [redacted]
please email me and let me know what was the problem was I would appreciate it.
[redacted]

I took it in. and the after all was said and done the guy had to replace the ignition switch and the starter relay

Then I guess I was on the job with the information that I was giving you.
Glad you got it done.
take care

1999 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline   

leaking large amounts of oil

color of oil. ?

Did you have recent oil change? Check filter and drainplug for tightness. Describe 'large' (puddle size) std or auto trans?

First check engine oil and trans oil to determine which is going down. If really leaking large amounts and not oil filter or drain plug, you should consider towing to shop.
If you think its safe to drive, try taking to self service car wash and washing the affected area, then short run time to help pinpoint leak.
If it is auto trans you might check trans cooler lines (1/2" black hose) that go from transaxle to rad area)

1999 VW Jetta Engine   

1999 jetta 2.0 will just stop while driving. replaced fuel pump and filter.Also new plugs and wires. will restart after a few minutes. Previous starting issue, would crank,but not turn over, hasn't been a problem since new fule pump. Now just dies while driving

New fuel pump might be the problem.
Even though it is new, it might have
an intermittent problem. First check the connections as they could be corroded.
If you do replace the pump (warranty?)
you should always replace the filter at the same time. Also check for water in the gas tank,,,it does happen!

thefilter was changed with the fuel pump. still having problems. Someone suggested the engine speed sensor or the fuel pump relay?

let me start at the biginnning of my saga. Whle driving at 75 mph slowed for traffic when I tried to accelerate car slowed, but did not stop. At this point replaced plugs wires, maf. next week car had trouble starting. cranked,but did not start. Replaced battery. 2 days later blew interior light fuse. car wouldn't start. replaced fuse. car still difficult to start on some days and now dies while intraffic. Replaced fuel pump,filter. Car seems to start fine now,but still dies in trafic. Problem will not duplicate for my mechanic.

The interior light fuse might be a clue. The alternator might have experienced a surge or a spike in voltage. That might have damaged some components....a good Scan Tool like a Snap On one might divulge some answers...as you might find some codes in the history,

no codes show when tested

Might want to leave the car with your mechanic, and possibly give him permission to drive home. It might help replicate problem. I have done that on several occasions and actually driven with the scan tool connected, to pinpoint the problem.

mechanis has been driving car since friday. Problem has not happened. Someone said it culd be an intermitent problem with the engine speed sensor(engine crank sensor) your thoughts

Crank sensors can indeed be intermittent,actually was
sinilar situation on my car
and no codes were set either.
Speed sensor is separate item
from crank sensor. VSS is located
either on speedo cable at trans end
or speedo end. Crank sensor located on engine.

1999 VW Jetta Ignition System   

Battery died due to lights left on. Tried to jump start, won't start. bypassed battery, not battery problem. No click from solenoid, turning key makes no noise. Lights act normally as if starting the car, but starter does not engage. Have not yet bypassed clutch switch, but it worked fine before battery died. Help?

Jump starting not always a cure for dead battery, So many light duty jumper cables to deal with and bad connections,Not good on alt of both cars when it starts (2 alternators fighting each other!) Best idea is to fully charge battery. Second best is to hook up cables with 'donor' car running for 10-15 minutes to charge your battery. Meanwhile look at all big fuses under hood.There are a few main ones. Also check if any problems with fusable links near battery.
FYI Alternator is designed to 'maintain' battery charge. Having a "jumped" car start, then disconnecting the cables, puts a strain on alternator and might hurt it as it is working VERY hard to charge battery up, Thats why I like plugging in a battery charger,,,time consuming but safer,

Has nothing to do with alternator. Checked fuses above battery. Has nothing to do with battery, isolated battery means I took the old battery out of the equation, in my description, it states turning key does nothing to starter or solenoid. No click, noise or starter motor action of any kind. Using very expensive high quality jumper cables connected very well and correctly. Also does not start with new battery.

Then I would get a test light or a volt/ohm meter and start testing circuits.You might try disconnecting the S terminal wire on starter.Attach a new 10 guage wire to the starter then momentarily touch other end to batt + terminal. No crank, starter issue,
If it cranks over normally, then you have to test the switch for continuity and the wires for conductiveness.And yes either test nuetral saftey switch ot temp bypass it (pk brake on/trans neutral)

1998 VW Jetta All Part Groups Stalling Happens always 

Always stalling when using the AC. 1998 Jetta GL, manual, not automatic. Very basic no frills model, with 2.0-liter inline 4-cylinder engine. About 103,000 miles.

My problem occurs only when I use the air conditioner. I got the car new in '98, but the problem began much later. PROBLEM: When I hit the AC, the car begins to idle wildly. (Normally idles around 900 or 1000 rpms.) It immediately drops to around 200-300rpms, seems like it is about to stall. Then the rpms fluctuate quickly up & down from 700 rpms to 200 rpms, and finally stalls.

It stalls so peacefully & quietly that I don't realize it until I'm fighting with the steering wheel. This only applies to city driving - highway driving w/ AC is just fine. Soooo ... I only use it sparingly - like to clear my windshield during the rain.

I was told by 1 mechanic that I needed a new seliniod (?) to regulate the idle while the AC is on.

I was told my another mechanic that I have a dirty idle air controller & to disconnect the battery and have the throttle body (?) cleaned.

Please help!!! What is my problem????

JUST AS FYI:
A few months ago I got new spark plugs, wires & distrib cap, but then the motor REFUSED to turn over during the rain or after a car wash. When my car stopped on the highway during a storm & had it towed to a garage I got a new ignition coil.

At 70K miles I got a new exhaust system to replace old one which was badly rusted with holes. I also changed the timing belt and all the other belts at 70K. I got a new battery about 1.5 yrs ago (but the AC problem was around LONG before that.) And new brakes.

I think everything else is original equipment.

Both mechanics could be right. It's inexpensive to clean the throttle body, assuming you can do this yourself. Use throttle body cleaner and a brush, be sure to get both sides of the throttle blade. Also clean the pintle on the idle air control valve.

The problem is more likely to be the solenoid/switch that tells the computer the AC is on and the idle speed needs to be raised.

Quick follow up: I am trying to learn about my car but right now I know VERY little. Is it stupid for me to try to clean the throttle blade & pintle myself - if I don't really know where it is? I mean, I can find a diagram somewhere ... but am I gonna really screw up the car by trying to do it myself? Also, I am a female and I've been lied to about cars so much. How much should I expect to pay for this: part(s)? labor? Thank you so much!!

You would want instructions before you attempted to service your car. I guess your life experiences would be the greatest indicator of whether you should attempt this. You sound like you are eager to learn, this is a plus. You would need to read the instructions and follow them completely. Attempts at shortcuts is asking for trouble. Patience is important too.

The price you pay will depend on several factors. Anyone you pay should properly diagnose the problem and not just throw parts at the car (commonly called 'shotgunning' in the business). The price of diagnostics will depend on the hourly rate charged by garages in your area. This varies anywhere from $35 an hour to over $100 in some locations. Expect to pay somewhere in between.
Garages are not cheap and neither are parts. With this in mind I would say no more than 1 hour to diagnose the problem. The price of the parts is tricky. If you are lucky it could just be a bad connection that can be repaired cheaply (10-20 minutes at hourly rate). Or it could be a dealer only part that could get outrageous (as dealer parts frequently do) and cost aprox $150 -$200. Again, expect to pay somewhere between inexpensive and outrageous :)

If you want to drop me an email I'll send you info on information sources for your car.
[redacted]

If you do email me, please put VW or similar in the subject line. This way I won't mistake you for junk mail.

1998 VW Jetta Engine Lagging When driving Always

I HAVE A 1998 VW JETTA TDI THAT I SENT OUT OF THE COUNTRY AND IT HAS BEEN A GREAT CAR VERY ECONOMICAL AND RELIABLE BUT IT STARTED LEAKING DIESEL FROM THE INJECTORS I HAD THE INJECTORS RING REPLACED BUT THEN WE NOTICES THAT IN IT FEELS NORMAL GOING ON A FLATROAD BUT IT HAS NO POWER IN HILLS I CAN BARELY GET SECOND GEAR SOMETIMES ONLY ON FIRST I HAD THE INTAKE MANIFULL CLEAN BUT NOTHING AND THE VW DEALER IN EL SALVADOR DONT WANT TO HAVE ANITHING TO DO WITH IT PLEASE I NEED TO KNOW IF ANYBODY HAS A IDEA WHAT COUSING THE CAR TO LOOSE SO MUCH POWER GOING EVEN IN THE SMALLEST HILL THAKS FOR YOUR ANSWER ATT BO

If there is no check engine light illuminated, the most common cause would be that the timing belt is off one tooth(slipped), exhaust is restricted, or fuel pressure is low under load.The first thing to do in this case is replace the fuel filter.Then check fuel pressure or have it checked.Should have 36 psi at idle.To see if timing belt slipped have a compression test performed on all cyls.If you have not had a tune up in awhile that might be a good idea now.Worn plugs can fail under load.

How did you make out?

1998 VW Jetta All Part Groups Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

My Daughter recently purchased a gas VW Jetta GT. She has been told by the prior owner to plug the car in when the weather is cold otherwise the car may not start. They suggested that she plug it in every night. They recently had some work done on a vacuum around the gas tank. Does this vehicle have a history of not starting and where is the sensor for the cold weather starts located? I would like to have some idea where to start looking?

The diesel engines gave frequent problems with glowplugs, weak batteries, etc.
On the gas engines, you could check for fuel pump pressure, coolant temperature sensor, clogged fuel injectors, etc.

This is a gas vehicle not diesel. Is this a battery related problem. It was apparently replaced in 2004. Is there a cold weather sensor and if so where would it be located?

Hello, I find no cold weather sensor listed for the gas engine Jetta GT. I'd like to know what device that the former owner suggested be plugged in every night? Would this be a block heater? That would keep coolant and oil above cold ambient temps and improve starting chances in cold weather. Some aftermarket companies offer a heater that mounts/inserts in a cooling system hose to warm the coolant. I just don't know what they are saying to plug in....

There is however, a coolant temperature sensor that if inaccurate would fool the computer to calling for an incorrect fuel amount. This sensor is located on the coolant outlet on the side of the engine head. It is held in place by a metal clip. The sensor has a four wire connector.

The coolant temperature sensor is listed as suspect when the engine is hard to start cold. things listed are the routine items like battery condition, state of charge, cable connections clean and tight.

Does this help? I can email, or fax info to you from the data base?

Please advise,

Roger

The prior owner advised us to plug the vehicle into a block heater. I am still confused as to how keeping the oil and coolant at an ambient temperature effects the starting of an engine. Our night-time temperatures here in Ontario are between
minus 5 and minus 10. If your could fax any relevent data to [redacted] it would be appreciated.
Thanks
STeve

My local VW Dealer Service Department tells me that The car did not come from the factory equipped with a block heater. That tells me that dealerships in your geographic area routinely install block heaters during dealer prep for delivery because your climate dictates the need.

That said, if the oil and coolant are kept warm by a block heater plugged in at night it simulates a relatively warmer climatic condition exists. Warm engine oil has a thinner viscosity and permits the starter to turn the engine with less effort/strain than would be needed if the oil were very cold and very thick viscosity. The warmer coolant shortens the elapsed time from engine start to the moment the heater begins to warm the car's interior. In short, it starts easier and warms up faster.

A good strong battery with stout cold cranking amps rating is a must for frigid starts. In Alaska it is common to see a heater that wraps around the battery to warm it as well. Batteries that are in a low state of charge will freeze and ruin. A properly maintained and charged battery will not freeze.

I'll sign off and send the fax now. Look it over and read carefully the A3 Platform info to find the embedded data relevant to the 1998 model year for testing the coolant sensor. You want to be sure of the sensor wiring connector wiring color codes.

Roger

I faxed two pages to you.

Roger

Did you receive the fax? Will the info help? What else do you think you might need?

Thanks,

Roger

How are you doing with this one?

Please update so I can keep up. Thanks!

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

1998 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

My Jetta 98 has a grinding noise coming from the steering wheel every time i turn right.....is getting stringer and stronger. Sounds like there is something dry in there. Can you give me any ideas. My car has 69000 miles.

Here are my thoughts with out actually looking at the car. It could be the rack and pinion leaking or going bad, A cv joint or tie rod end. Check these posibilities out if it leads you in the right direction great or if you have more information to ask please reply. Thanks and good luck

thank you for your response. How long can i drive like this before I take it to the mechanic. I mean can I drive it til Monday?

Check and top off the fluids look for any major damage in your steering, Check air pressure and tire tread wear. If all this is ok, I would say yes drive the car. Carefully, being aware that steering could become "manual" and hard to turn. After replying I realized that it could be something steering wheel related such as something inside the wheel broken or rubbing. So keep that in mind also when you take it to mechanic.
Thanks and best wishes

1998 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

I have a 98 Jetta GLX V-6. The serpentine belt has been replaced (6 belts at this point within 2 years), tensioner replaced twice, water pump replaced, the AC compressor clutch and bearing assembly. I have a chirping noise that continues to get louder to the point that I feel that I am damaging the belt. This is one reason that I have had so many serpentine belts. This problem has been on going for two years. When a part is replaced it will not make the noise until the next morning and sometimes days later the noise will return. Any suggestions?

My car has 110,352 miles.

Has the alternator been checked? The belt tensioner is the most common problem, followed by the alternator.

All pulleys need to be checked thoroughly for problems. In this fast paced world the tech may be to quick to replace something without inspecting the pulleys (not a particularly fun thing to do).

Can a car run for two years with an alternator problem? I have not had a dead battery or lights dimming.

Are you working on the car yourself?

Two years? Possible, depending on what the problem is. How many miles?

Do you only hear the noise on start-up? Does it go away in a minute or two?

Particularly on cold start-up or once the vehicle has sat...

The car has 110,352 miles. I had the tensioner replaced on Friday, 10/5. Monday morning (didn't start the car all weekend) the noise went away after 3 or 4 minutes. This morning the noise did not go away. I only live 6 to 7 minutes from work. I have noticed that if the belt is taken off, then put back on after work is done the car will not make the noise until the next morning. As I accelerate the noise sounds louder and faster. When I let the noise go it turns into a very very loud squeal. Too loud to even drive the car without people turning around to look to see where the noise is coming from. My mechanic told me that my last belt he took off to replace had messed up some of the grooves. Do pulleys having bearings inside them and could it be a pulley?

No I do not work on the car. I am trying to troubleshoot also since I have spent over $2,000 trying to get this problem fixed. I have been to the dealership and two private mechanics.

Okay, I think you may be able to isolate the problem yourself.

Do pulleys have bearings? Yes, pulleys attach to and drive a shaft that rests in bearing(s). Alternators have two bearings and tensioners have one.

All components run off the crankshaft pulley (the bottom pulley). These all have a pulley and bearing or two. A problem with the bearing (which makes it difficult for the pulley to turn) or physical damage to the pulley can cause belt failure. The only other thing that leads to premature belt failure is contaminants (IE, oil or grease will make the belt/pulleys slippers...)

When you hear the belt squealing it means it is slipping. When it slips heat is generated. Start the engine and allow it to squeal for a few seconds. Shut the Engine OFF and observe the pulleys. Are any smoking or showing signs of belt debris?

Next, if necessary, feel the pulleys. Note if one is getting hot (from the belt slipping). If you can't tell, allow the engine to run a bit longer and retest (the idea is to catch is warm but not hot enough to cause a burn).

Let me know if the instructions are clear and you know what to look for.

1998 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

Hearing a noise which gets louder when accelerating. Can almost feel a vibration from the noise. Doesn't happen every time I start/drive the car. Came to a stop, one day, it hesitated on acceleration, then lurched forward; heard a clanky noise as it moved from stop. Muffler & small pipe going into it have been replaced so it isn't that.

Hi, the problem you are having could be down to a number of things, the first thing i would check is the engine and gearbox mounts as if one of these has broke then this wil cause the engine to be off balance and wil cause the noise you hear, it also gives you a good idea of the jerking you felt as this would happen when the engine is put under pressure from a start and also slowing down using the engine instead of the brakes.

you need to check all the engine mounts and gearbox mounts you should find one or more will be broken, you can grab a good hold of the top of the engine and give it a good push and pull to check for any play you will need to push and pull hard so get a good hold and see if you have got any play, you will need to get all engine and gearbox mountings checked.

Now the problem could also be soemthing like anti roll bar bushes so it may be worth checking all the bushes use a crow bar or breaker bar to put the bushes under pressure to see how much they move, to me it points towards the engine or gearbox mounts so check these firsts, then move onto the anti rol bar bushes and then onto bottom ball joint, its less likely to be the bushes but it may be worth checking just to rule them out,

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

I'll have someone check all of that today and get back to you. Thanks.

No problem mate, the chances are it will be either the engine mount or gearbox mount at fault, have a good look and let me know what you find ok, let me know if you need further assistance ok.

Had son push/pull on engine & check rest as suggested. He couldn't find anything. I didn't mention this to you, but the car doesn't always start when I turn the key. He said it could be the starter or solenoid and that part of it broke off & is making the noise. What do you think? Major problem trying to find a good VW mechanic in the area so I'm going to have to go to someone who doesn't specialize and want to have things narrowed down if at all possible or it will be a nightmare. Had THAT happen twice before with other problems. :(
Carol

Hi, if when the car wont start you hear a squeeling noise or a click when you turn the key then this would point toward faulty solenoid on the starter so this would need the starter replacing, now as for the jerking if this would not be caused by the starter as this has no affect on the performance or drive as the starter dissengages after the engine is running.
the only things that could cause jerking are bad or damage clutch, pressure plate or thrust bearing, these all come in a clutch kit or the other causes would be mounts but as you have checked them and they are ok then it could be down to clutch plate.

you can test the mounts better if you had the engine running with the bonnet open then have the parking brake on and get someone to stand at the side of the car then if you put the car in 1st and then let clutch up to put strain on the engine and then see if it has any movement also do the same in reverse dont drive the car but have parking brake on then put in gear and use the clutch tp jerk forwards and backwards slightly then let someone look to see if their is any movement.

but worse case it could be a damaged drive gear in the gearbox if one of the drive gears are shredded a bit this will cause it to jerk as when you let the clutch up it would not be smooth as it would jerk until the drive gear is at a part that is ok if some of it was damaged then this could cause a jerking motion how ever this would mean having the gearbox removed and stripped down.

let me know what you find out ok

1998 VW Jetta Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I AM STILL WAITING TO GET AN ANSWER REGARDING MY 1998 JETTA THAT HAS THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS: EMERGENCY LIGHT COMES ON, FAN STORS BLOWING, HEADLIGHTS/DAY-TIME RUNNING LIGHT GO OUT AND INTERIOR GAUGE LIGHT DIM

Sounds like battery going dead.
Could be bad (old) battery or
a bad alternator belt or the
alternator itself might be bad.

I HAVE HAD BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR CHECKED BY AAMCO AND BY AUTOZONE TWICE. AND EVERYTHING WAS GOOD. ALSO WHEN ALL OF THESE THINGS START HAPPENING THERE'S CLICKS THAT SOUND LIKE THEY ARE COMING FROM THE LEFT-SIDE CORNER WHERE MY HEADLIGHTS AND DIMMER SWITCH ARE. ALSO I AM NOT UNDERSTANDING HOW TO USE A TEST LIGHT FOR THE RELAYS AND CIRCUITS. PLS. BREAK IT DOWN SO THAT IT MAKES SENSE TO ME. THANK YOU YVONNE

First you have to get a wiring schematic for your car.If it is a relay, listen closer to determine which one.Then possibility would be to unplug/replace it.

1997 VW Jetta Engine Hesitating When accelerating Always

CRUISE CONTROL DOES NOT RESPOND AFTER SETTING OR DOES NOT HOLD SPEED WHEN GOING UP HILLS. SOUND OF MOTOR OR VACUUM PUMP FROM UNDER DASH DIES OUT AS IT IS TRYING TO MAINTAIN SPEED. WILL HOLD SPEED SET ON LEVEL GROUND, BUT WILL NOT RESPOND TO SLOWING- VACUUM PUMP???

Good chance it is the pump. Check all the related hoses and actuators. Any leaks will cause the vacuum to not develop enough suction. Try pinching off the hoses to see if the motor changes its sound and if a leak can be isolated.

1997 VW Jetta Engine Vibration When driving Always

I have a 97 VW Jetta then when I start to accelerate it winds ups really hard till about 25mph and then jerks and winds back to around 2500 rpm. When I accelerate I have to take my foot off the gas in order to get it to shift to the next year otherwise it will wind up to about 4000 rpm. When I get to 60 mph and I get a lot of vibration thru the steering wheel. Any ideas?

Does the check engine (MIL) light come on while the engine is running?

Could you further explain what you mean by winds up really hard? Do you mean the engine rpms get to high OR that there is a lack of power?

The check engine light used to be on all the time till I had the battery changed and now it doesn't come on anymore. When I start to press the accelerator the engine will rev up to 2900rpm before a slight jerk when the speed gets to 25mph. The engine will rev up to 3500 and higher if I don't take my foot off the accelerator before switching into the next gear.

How many miles and when was the last transmission service? You'll need to have the transmission checked- I recommned getting estimates from transmission specialists that offer free diagnostics and estimates.

1997 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When accelerating When cold

i have a 1997 VW Jetta. When cold, it makes a knock type sound under acceleration. Sometimes when you hit a bump. The sound seems to come from between your feet and the front of the drivers seat. That doesn't really make sense. Once warm the noise completely goes away and things seem fine. Can you help?

I have seen problems like that on the Jetta coming from the exhaust hitting the floor, or missing some of its rubber mounts.

I am with you on that, but it making the noise when cold and going away when warm doesn't make sense. Sway bar bushings are there. couldn't see anything that appeared to be missing. Is it possible there is something like that around the shifter linkage? 5 speed.

Generally a shifter noise will change if you push the shifter one direction or the other, or you will be able to feel the noise/vibration. Check your exhaust hangers/mounts.

I had a car that from new made a squeaking when going over bumps on cold mornings. After 10+ years it got enough worse that I could pinpoint 2 stabilizer bar bushings. $15 parts and never heard it again.

1997 VW Jetta Fuel System   

just recently bought 97 jetta 2.0 171K miles for 16 yr old daughter 1st car. Mom drove car for 2 weeks and loved it. one day going around a circle the car stalled but started right back up but on the way home mal light came on. took it to a local shop they scanned it and came up with codes leak det pump vac low and #3 cyl misfire. The shop wanted $1200 to replace pump and plugs dist cap and rotor. I opted not to pay that and brought the car home. on the way home mal light went out. the car ran really smooth so i questioned a misfire at all. after inspecting underneath the hood myself i found a vacuum line rubbing against serp belt replaced that one and a few others. took car out and ran fine for 5 miles car stalled as i was accelerating in 2nd gear got car started and was able to nurse it home if i accelerated to fast it would bog out like running out of fuel. replaced the fuel filter and went for test ride went half a block and stalled. could not get it to restart. talked to a friend that said replace fuel pressure regulator so i did. car started and idled fine but as soon as i would try to accelerate it would stall out. Replaced the fuel pump,leak det pump and the maf. fuel pressure reading 40 psi. Now heres whats really weird somehow i found out that when car would stall out upon acceleration it would not restart unless i disconnected the return fuel line from the fuel pr reg valve. i removed the return line from the fuel tank and blew air thruogh it to make sure there was not a blockage and also checked the check valve.I was reading in a couple of forums about adaption (disconnect battery touch battery leads together reconnect and turn on key until throttle body stopped going through its cycle)I performed this car started idled fine but still stalls upon acceleration. So after it stalled i thought i would do the adaption procedure to clear ecu and see if it would start and it did not.By the way after i fixed vacuum hose i cleared the ecu with scanner and i have not gotten any trouble codes since.

also removed fuel cap to see if i would get a code or made any difference and did not get any codes and no difference

If you disconnect and plug the return line (so you don't have a fuel leak) the engine will restart, otherwise it will not?

What this should do is cause high fuel pressure, indicating the engine is not getting enough fuel when properly connected. Did you replace the fuel filter also?

yes one of the 1st things i did is replace the fuel filter i do not plug the return line but put a tee in and ran it into a catch can

To whom it may concern,
I put up a posting yesterday afternoon around 4pm and spent some time to include all the details.
I got one response at 10pm last night the tech/mech obviously did not read or quickly forgot what i wrote because he came back and asked if I had changed fuel filter. I had put this in the original post. I'm hoping to get a good response back this morning. I was under the impression that I would get responses back a lot faster.
Thanks
Jeff

Sorry my phone/internet service has been down. Sorry for missing the line about the fuel filter.

At this point you need to check for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period. Do you have spark?

You need to check fuel pressure, during the no start period.

If you have spark and adequate fuel pressure, you will need to check for injector pulse to the fuel injector using a noid light.

Which is missing when the engine will not restart?

Have spark and 38psi fuel pressure. I'm putting the pressure gauge in just before the fuel pressure regulator. Which I replaced with a new one. Not familiar with a noid light.

A noid light is simply a test light for the fuel injectors. Unplug an injector and plug in the noid light, it will flash when you crank the engine if the injector is being pulsed (positive voltage is constant when the key is on, the computer provides the ground signal).

1997 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline   

Looking for any tips and tricks I need to know before attempting to remove and replace the clutch. Any special tools needed?

which engine do you have ?

You will have to remove the drain plug and drain oil
disconect the halfshafts from the inner drive flanges and hang them from the body

remove clutch cover-plate and the small plate behind the right half-shaft flange

remove the starter and front engine mount
disconect and remove clutch cable from transaxle housing

remove the remaining transaxle mount bolts and mounts

place a jack under the trans and remoive the last bolts holding it to the it to the engine carefully pry the trans away from
the engine and lower it from the vehicle

you will need a toothed flywheel holder tool vw-558 or equivelent and gradually loosen the flywheel to pressure plate bolts and remove the clutch disc
you will need a centering tool vw-547 to alighn the clutch disc
install bolts in a criscross pattern and 2 tuns at a time
this info should help you

1997 VW Jetta Ignition System   

Car won't turn over. Battery and alternator have tested good. Starter and Ignition switch have been replaced. tested clutch switch and see voltage when key is turned to start position. Jumpered past clutch switch with no effect. Starter turns and will start car if power is supplied from battery to small connector on the starter. Tested small wire to starter from underneath dash to starter. Wire is good.

Do you hear any sound when the key is turned to the start position?

Never overlook fuses, battery terminals, and engine and chassis grounds when you have an electrical failure.

The dash lights come on. There are a few sounds from behind the dash, relays presumably. It does not make the click click sounds of a dead battery. I've cleaned the battery terminal and even replaced the battery cables.

I've also checked the fuses under the dash and the one fuse I found under the hood.

You should try voltage drop testing at this point to see if there is a short. Have you confirmed power to the ignition switch?

Also, is there a security system on your car?

1997 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline   

I'm installing a clutch in my son's 1997 Jetta and can't find the throwout bearing to save my life. Is it in the back of the transmission under the green plate?

There is a green cap at the back end of the tranny. Once this is removed you can gain access to the bearing. So, yes you are right.
Heavychevy

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your jetta.
Heavychevy

I got the throwout bearing taken care of, but inadvertantly had the alignment rod come out while reinstalling the tranny. I can't get it to go back in (seems like the shims are sliding over into the tunnel for it). Local VW dealer wants $700 to disassemble the transmission and reinstall the rod, so I don't know what I'm going to do. Any ideas?

The only thing I can tell you is keep tring you may eventually get it If you get to frustrated I say take it in have it replaced or you can do it your self. AN easy trick that may work is to get a couple of the telescopic magnits with a little patiance and luck it may work. If you need anythind feel free to contact. If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a nice day.
Heavychevy

1997 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

My VW 1997 Jetta makes a roaring noise, when I start to accelerate, I checked the heat shield, but I think now it could be my motor mount. the noise is still there? Oh! I would like to pay by money order for safty reasons can I?

Please describe which area of the vehicle the roaring noise is coming from: Engine, body, wheels, etc?

The niose is coming from the engine like around the heat shield, How many motor mount does a VW Jetta has.
I like to know where it may be coming from show pictures. remember I already paid $24.00 and still waiting for an answer. Thank You

I will do my best to help you, but first we need to determine if the cause is a motor mount or not. A bad mount will usually cause a clunk or repetive clunking sound. This can usually be duplicated by shifting from drive to reverse while sitting still. The flex of the transmission reversing engagement will be excessive and can be heard/felt IF the engine mount is worn. What does this test reveal?

Copy and paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www.autozone.ro/N,[redacted] /Ntt,mount/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

This link shows the mounts for you car assuming a 4 cylinder engine.

Is really a humming sound, as I accelerate, sometime it sound louder, but only when I accelerate.
Here wishing you Luck, Thank You again.
be looking forward to your answer

Try the test I mentioned. Do so in a safe area using caution.

A worn mount could be causing the drivetrain to misalign resulting in the humming noise.

Let me know the results and we'll continue.

1997 VW Jetta Ignition System   

My 97 Jetta suddenly won't crank. Lights, radio, etc. are fine. When we turn the key, I hear a whining from near the throttle assembly, so the engine is apparently getting the message.

My air conditioning and cruise control are both non-working. Air might be related to recent repairs for other purposes. Cruise is unexplained.

From what I can see online, the Clutch switch might explain both the cruise and starting failure. Does this seem likely? Or is there another culprit?

If it's the clutch switch, is that something I can do at home, with a Bentley manual nearby, or should I call Norm, my VW guy?

First thing I would check is the state of the battery,If near the 5 year old mark, it is suspect.Check battery connections also. If it starts with booster cables, then have the battery and charging tested. Most shops, including Midas can test Battery, starter and Alternator in 5 minutes.With low power, some stuff works, some not. A relay could buzz if there is minimal power.

Thanks for the reply. Lights, radio, wipers, windows, absolutely everything works fully and well. Battery connections are clean - just cleaned them 2 months ago. It's not the battery. (I wish it was - that would be easy). Next possibility?

At that point, I would test the starter, by running a large power wire (or jumper cable) directly from the battery, directly to the starter. If it cranks normal, I would suspect a fuseable link, near the battery or an ignition switch problem, either which can be tested with a test light.

Thanks Bruce. I'll try it...

1996 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline Leaking  

My son has a 1996 Jetta which has a slow leak. It will go two or three weeks before there is a sign of minor slipping. The local dealer charges a fortune just to top it off. Where can I get information on adding transmission fluid to this car? It seems a lot different than American models.

Hello, Auto transmission? Add the fluid through the transmission dip stick tube. Use a long neck funnel. Check fluid level on level surface with the shift lever in Neutral and the engine running. (Set the parking brake to prevent personal injury or property damage)

If the trans is warm, fill to the upper indicator mark on the dip stick. If cool, fill to the lower indicator mark on the dip stick. The difference between the marks on the stick is one pint (0.23L).

Will that do it?

Roger

Actually, the Volkswagen Jetta doesn't have a dipstick. It is filled from below with a special "pump". It's more like filling a differential. Volkswagen makes a lot of money this way - $250 for a fluid change. I'm wondering if there is a third party pump and instructions somewhere.

Bill

Bill, The info I offered came straight from an auto repair data base! Soooo, what series Jetta? What size engine? Gas or diesel? Auto trans or manual trans?

Yikes, I rarely miss one this badly.

Roger

Bill? Is this question still active? I want to help and I'll go to my local VW Dealer if you'd like. We both need some clarification.

Thanks,

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

Roger,

I'm sorry something came up and I had to go out of town for a while. Now, I'm trying to catch up. The issue is still not resolved. I'm mainly trying to find out if there is a reasonable priced source for the "pump" that is used to add fluid. Thanks.

Bill

How can I help? Bill, The info I offered came straight from an auto repair data base! Soooo, what series Jetta? What size engine? Gas or diesel? Auto trans or manual trans?

I would like to know more about the car as I want to find an affordable solution too.

Thanks,

Roger

Hey Bill, I remember seeing a guy using a hand pump to pump fluid into the outdrive assembly of an inboard/outboard boat. A pump of this type screws onto a quart bottle, has a large button that fits the palm of your hand and has a plunger action to actuate.

I've seen this pump in boat shops and large sporting goods stores. I believe it will do the job for you...what are your thoughts?

Roger

1996 VW Jetta Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

Alarm system will not deactivate when unlocking door. I have to disconnect the battery cable to turn-off the alarm. This is the only way to stop the alarm from sounding. Also, the power sunroof will not open, interior clock resets to 12:00, and radio will not work; no power. Do I need to replace the alternator? Any assistance will be very helpful. Appreciatively, cpenny1210@hotmail.com

Hello, Have you checked all fuses? If all of these things happened at once it sounds like a common power source has been lost.

Look for a power lock or body fuse blown. Check for metal in a cigar lighter socket such as a staple ,coin, wrapper that may have blown the fuse. Plugging in a cell phone or other accessory can pop a fuse also.

Please advise,

Roger

Hey, It's been nearly a month. Still want help?

Roger

1996 VW Jetta Engine Overheating When driving When warm 

My coolant has no leak, but exceeds it's boiling point because my engine runs hot most of the time. The coolant boils so fast that I filled it to the max with Antifreeze once and 2 weeks later it needed refilling again. Just got a quote that it would cost $5-600.00 to replace radiator and radiator hoses, so I looked online for better prices and found all the parts needed for a price total of $234.05, but dealerships won't use other people's parts. Is it worth trying to find someone to do it for me or should I just order the parts and do it myself. And if anyone has suggestions on where to find people to do it for me, i'm all ears. Thanks --Dimitri

Hello, Has anyone told you there is something wrong with your present radiator that cannot be fixed? Does it just need rodded out? Does it leak?

How old is the cooling system thermostat? Have you considered changing it? Could it be stuck? Your radiator cap must hold pressure properly or the system will boil.

Radiator shops are qualified to repair/replace your radiator if need be. They can also remove and reinstall it for you. Cutting out the dealership can save you money. Even a body shop can replace a radiator. So can a Vo-Tech automotive school. Also, alot of salvage yards will do the work if they sell you a part. Just ask.

And then, you yourself can do this if you desire.

How do you want to begin?

Roger

Hello, I'm still wanting to hear from you on this question. What is the status please?

Roger

1996 VW Jetta Heating / Cooling System  When driving 

The temperature gauge icon on console when start engine flashes when driving. The temperature gauge indicator is resting in left, cold, not hot. What is the problem? Do I need to add antifreeze coolant, if so where do I add this fluid?

Does the temperature gauge stay in the cold position, never moving regardless of engine temperature? If yes the problem is most likey the engine temperature sensor/switch or its wiring.

1996 VW Jetta Engine   

We are trying to replace the timing belt on our Jetta and can not find a way to remove the pulley system. I have been to several libraries and none of the books tell you anything they just show the pulley system. I contacted several shops and they all want around $500 to do it. Any suggestions??

what size engine gas or diesel which pulleys

For a job this important I highly recommend a subsription from the dealer service information network. A subscription will give you the same information the actual dealership has, better than information local garages use. This will insure the job is done correctly without taking any potentially harmful shortcuts. Be sure to print all information on the belt change along with anything else you find interesting while your subscription is active. The subscription is available from VW at the following site:

www.ebahn.com/vw

1996 VW Jetta Ignition System   

'96 Jetta turns over, starts fine first thing each AM. When warm, turns over, won't start. Replaced coil and keyswitch. Confirmed no spark. Coil not getting 12v or pulse when key is in start position except in AM. Will roll start with key in run position.

The engine must be cranking to get the pulse signal. Make sure you are checking for 12 volts positive with a known good ground. You replaced the key switch-- was this the lock cylinder (the key goes into it) or the actual ignition switch (this is the likely failure for your problem).

If you didn't check for 12 volts positive with the key on using a known good ground, and discover you do have it-- check the crank angle sensor.

If the check engine light comes on when the car is running have the trouble codes checked. Some parts stores do this for free-- Advance Auto, Autozone, etc. Call ahead to see if they can check the codes on your car.

I've rigged LED's to watch the coil 12V and pulse. It's all there except when car is warm and key is turned to "crank" mode. Key switch and Key lock were replaced.
There is a "cam position sensor(inside distributor?)" and a "crankshaft position sensor(near flywheel)". Check which one and how? Resistance, continuity, signal?

Thanks,
DB

You can unplug them and measure ohms. Compare readings when the car will start to readings when it won't. Check both, if this is the problem this should show the difference. Unplug sensors one by one and check for 12V pos when the problem occurs. If you have shorting sensor they will sometimes shut things down.

Did you thoroughly inspect the connector/pins to the ignition switch? I assume you have check all fuses (use a test light on both sides of the fuse).

1996 VW Jetta Fuel System   

What happens when you run out of gas in a VW? My car is not running properly since putting gas in, but now will not start at all.

Is anyone there?

I do know when you run some domestic vehicles dry of fuel it tends to destroy the fuel pump thats located in the fuel tank.Try and turn the key to the on position and listen for a slight buzz coming from the rear of the car in the tank area.If none is heard,check the fuel pump relay.Chance could be you burned out the pump.If it is infact the pump,rule of thumb is never let the gas gauge get below 1/4 tank.

Where is the fuel pump relay located?

1996 VW Jetta Engine   

Hi, My '96 Jetta recently failed the emissions test on the basis that the check engine light didn't appear when the key was turned on before start up. It passed all other tests. So, my first step is to determine whether a fuse or lamp may be to blame, since that's the least expensive fix. Which fuse is connected to the "check engine light"?

There is no single fuse for that light, just a fuse that supplies many indicator lights. Probably just that specific bulb!

1996 VW Jetta Fuel System   

Low fule light comes on after about 200 miles, which would would be at about a half tank. I can drive about 200 more miles with that light on. When I fill it up it up the needle stops about 3/4 tank. Gas level sending unit issue? If so, is that complicated for a guy that can do most of his own work on cars?

Yes this is likely a problem with the sending unit. The wiring is possible, but not likely as it sounds this problem is consistent. Shopping around for parts will also help you save money.

It is not real complicated but you must take into account you are working with the gas tank meaning all safety precautions must be followed to avoid sparks which could cause fire explosion. Remember the first step is usually to disconnect the battery, don't skip important steps like this. You should buy service information for your car, sometimes available for a fraction of the cost on ebay (just make sure you are not buying a cheap copy of a Haynes or Chiltons manual on CD which are inadequate). There are also subscriptions availabe at eautorepair.com or alldata.com

I searched for free service information and cannot find it for your car. If you'd still like to troubleshoot/repair without buying, the Passat service information should be very close to your Jetta--

http://pdftown.com/Pdf-eBook/Volkswagen.html

Download the Passat service info at the above site.

Sorry, avoid eautorepair.com as it is just endless advertising. The correct entry would be eautorepair.net

I noticed that too. Thanks. Did you mean my Chilton will not have adequate information, or just online CD versions that people throw together are crap?

I'm not looking forward to playing with the fuel tank, that is one thing I have never done. Brakes, alternators, starters, power steering, etc. no big deal, but this is a different ballgame.

I couldn't recommend a Chilton as it may not have adequate information, most notably on diagnosis. Some so called factory service info on Ebay is copied Chiltons or Haynes manual (might as well have the paper manual). For removing the tank and sending unit it will probably be adequate.

If you do remove the tank you have to remember do not create any sparks. When instructed to use a special tool or brass punch to remove the sending unit locking mechanism do so. This is the most dangerous part of the job.

1996 VW Jetta Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

When I hit larger bumps or potholes, the rear of the car pulls or hops to the right (passenger side). It does not do this on the left hand rear. I've had the right rear tire wear out prematurely. Is this a defective shock or spring?

Sounds like a worn shock for sure, if the car sits level. Look at all 4 shocks and struts and struts, and see if any have any oily residue on them. A flashlight or trouble light would help.
With your hands, push up and down on the fender wih a lot of force. Then stop.
One bounce = good shock or strut.
4 or 5 bounces = very worn
Repeat with all four corners
Have alighnment (4 wheel) done.
2-3 bounce = worn strut or shock.

The passenger rear shock/strut was covered in oil. I ended up replacing both. You could push both pistons in by hand and they did not return out. The drivers side rear did not appear to be leaking but that tire did show signs of some cupping. I'm wondering if I shouldn't also replace the rear coil springs. The car has 150K miles and those springs are original equipment. I replaced the front struts two weeks ago. Thanks for your help!

Mark

Mark
While cupping tires are an indicator, leaking shocks are definatly one!
Replacing springs are an option, if you want a little better looks and handling, have a look at lowering springs by a company such as Eibach. They are good quality and lower the car about 1"

Sounds good. Thanks!

1995 VW Jetta Engine Won't Start Happens always Always

My 95 jetta has gotten hard to start. Sometimes it cranks right up and sometimes it takes a few tries. It does it cold and hot. It was gotten progressively worse. Today it just wouldn't start at all. I shot some starting fluid into the intake and it started and ran just fine. When I shut it off, wouldn't start. The engine is a 2.0L The problem began a year ago and just got worse.
Thanks for your help,
Dan

Dan, Let me see if this sounds familiar. If you let the engine crank and crank then it will start. If you shut it down and immediately attempt restart it will run, but sometimes it seems real ignorant. Does your car have an engine oil pressure gage or just the idiot light?? It sounds to me like your relay to "allow the fuel pump to start upon start up" has failed and you have been starting the engine using the "oil pressure is sufficient let the fuel pump run" relay. Both are identical in design and only cost about 20 each. Buy one and they should be able to tell you the location of these relays on your car. Pop one out, see if the problem is fixed, if not swap out the other one. Your problem should be gone. good Luck Al

1995 VW Jetta Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I cant find the fuse for the power window on a 1995 jetta I looked in the fues block and nothing even the owners manual does not have the location in the diagram

Hello, This is an interesting challenge. I'll have to go to a data base I cannot access from home.

Back soon,

Roger

I have a description and location drawing I can email or fax if you like. Just tell me where to?

The power window relay is Relay #21. Fuse #14 (10 amp) must also be good for power windows to work.

My source is the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base. Diagnostics for power windows are detailed by which ones are inoperative and proprietary to VW Scan Tool Software. It is a long trouble chart.

Does this help?,

Roger

please email me at [redacted] and cc [redacted]

All right, I'll get that graphic on its way.

Thanks,

Roger

The email has been sent as requested. Is it enough?

Roger

I want to send you a very rewarding thank you for your help, with the info you gave me lead me to the spot. Its funny that they do not list the fuse for the windows and mirrors.

Thank you very much and we will talk again soon.

Let me know what else you need.

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Will you please accept my answer so that I may be paid?

Thanks,

Roger

I need to hear from you as to the status of this question, please.

Still want help?

Roger

1995 VW Jetta All Part Groups Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

My 95 VW Jetta GL is not starting on cold mornings. I live in VA. Sometimes, it will start as the day warms up, other times no. This problem has been ongoing for several weeks. I am having problems getting a mechanic to find problem. Each time I take it in, it starts for him. He says he needs to see it when it won't start. This is VERY frustrating. FYI, I recently had the catalitic converter replaced at the dealership, approx 9 mo ago transmission was replaced at dealership under powertrain warrenty, clutch was replaced at that time, too. Approx. 100K miles on car. I love this car, but this problem is becoming a hassle, please help.

All you can really do is help with troubleshooting at this point.

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? (as it normally does)

Do you hear the fuel pump (in the gas tank) run during initial key on and engine cranking? (normally does)

Have you checked for spark?

These questions assume the starter cranks the engine but it does not start.

Yes, the check engine lights come on as normal. As for the fuel pump, I'm not sure. I can tell you the car is trying to start, but the engine won't turn over. Basically, the car won't fire up.
Also, this problem doesn't occur on every cold morning. But, when it does occur, it is cold.
As for the spark question....are you referring to the spark plugs. I'm assuming the mechanic checked them....seems obvious to me. I'll need to be more specific with this question to the mechanic.

I was wondering if you had checked or could check for spark to the spark plugs the next time the no start condition occurs.

Practice listening to the fuel pump when you initially turn the key on and during engine cranking. This will help you be able to listen for the sound when the no start occurs.

I want to make sure I understand what I'm listening for....I should be hearing somewhat of a gurgerling sound....like the gas is getting pumped into the car?? Is that right? I should be hearing more than just a grinding at the engine?

I will check the spark plugs.
Thank you.

You need a spark tester to test for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period.

The fuel pump is a humming sound coming from the rear of the car (located inside the gas tank). When you first turn on your key it will run for 2-3 seconds and stop. The reason I say when you first turn on your key is- it won't run everytime if you turn off the key and turn it right back on. It will also run during engine cranking, but is more difficult to hear.

1995 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

Hello,
My car recently died while driving, and started again after getting a boost. The mechanic replaced the battery but said the alternator was fine. The car then died again while driving (after about 10 minutes of driving but restarted within a few minutes). The mechanic found nothing wrong and said the fuel pump tested fine and suggested maybe I was brushing against my keys and causing the engine to turn off. Car died again after 10 minutes of driving, but immediately restarted. Any ideas? MEchanic won't really look at it anymore because he can't find anything wrong.

I would get a 2nd opinion on the alternator, sometimes boosting it can cause problems. Also check the main fuses, fuseable links and the connections

1995 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

Two questions. One: how expensive is it to get a radiator fan tightened? It's a new radiator and believe fan, it's not broken just loose. Two: What can I look for in getting my a/c fixed? I've had EVERY part replaced and the thing STILL goes out! It's getting hot out here and no a/c is killing me. I go to appointments all sweaty and red!

If the fan shrouds are loose or missing the repair should be very small.If the plastic fan blade is loose on the electric motor shaft, then the plastic fan blade might be worn.Try tightening the nut on the center of the fan.If that does not work, it requires new blade.Blades normally cost 30-40 dollars.Labor should not exceed 1 hour, whatever your shop charges per hour.
, yours should be easy. A good repair shop should have a warranty for their repairs.

When I spin the fan, it wobbles. The case in which the fan sits is stable. Also, any ideas on the a/c?

When I spin the fan, it wobbles. The case in which the fan sits is stable. Also, any ideas on the a/c?"

There is very little that a average person can doo with the a/c.If you are not satisfied with the service of your current shop, try another.Not only should a/c repairs last a long time, but the shop should stand behind their work with a warranty.

I'm just beside myself in what the problem could be! I've had the compressor replaced and any other parts connected to the compressor replaced and it's still not working properly. The best I get out of it is maybe 5 minutes of cold air and then that's it for the rest of the day! Should I be taking it to an a/c specialist instead of a general mechanic or it doesn't really matter?

A/C specialist will save you money as he will just go straight to problem, instead of randomly replacing parts.

1995 VW Jetta Fuel System   

the car seem to run fine but when I stop it doesn't idle it just dies, but it does restart quickly. any ideas

Two likely causes. First is a vacuum leak. Check thoroughly for vacuum leaks.

The next is the idle speed motor (also called idle air control valve.) Remove this and clean its pintle and the port back into the throttle body. Also clean the throttle body and blade. Let me know if this works.

1995 VW Jetta Ignition System   

no engine cracking when turning key, power available to headlights and interior lights but not to blower or horn or wipers. Is there a fuse or fuseable link underhood or in passenger compartment i need to check?

You need to start by checking the battery terminals, cables, and grounds-- this is the most common and overlooked cause. Clean and replace as necessary. You are missing power to multiple sources which usually is not a fuse problem, still check fuses one by one if necessary (uull one check and replace to avoid a mix-up). The other thing that could be causing this is the ignition switch (not to be confused with the lock cylinder that the key goes into) as it distributes power.

1995 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

1995 jetta not starting. Odometer reads IN O2.

Hi
Please define "Not starting" Does the engine actually turn over with the starter? Fast , slow, or not at all?
Also could you please define what you mean by "Odometer reads IN O2' A little confusing here.
Also can you tell me the last time it ran and a few more symptoms, so we can get it going?
I will be on and off my computer this evenibg and will await your reply.
Bruce

1994 VW Jetta Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

need wiring diagram for fuel control

Give me your e-mail address and I will email you a diagram in the morning.
Dale

adr email [redacted] Tanks You

Let me know if you did not get the e-mail
[redacted]

i did not receved your e mail please send it to [redacted] . i need wiring diagram for 1994 jetta fuel control 1.8 ltrs.

I sent it again. [redacted] If that does not work, I can fax it to you.

1994 VW Jetta Fuel System   

I was driving slowing down to stop. then the engine quit like the ignition was turned off. I have spark to the sparkplugs and fuel up to the fuel rail, but still it will not start. It will turn over.

The best thing to do and save a lot of guess work is to test for stored codes
whatever the problem is I am sure it would be a code stored in the computer to indicate what the problem is
The other way is to go step by step and test out each componet to see through the process of elimination what has gone bad
I would start by testing the injectors to see if they are gettind a power on signal from the computer and then the same symtoms would occur from a malfunctioning crankshaft position sensor or othere parts of the electronic ignition system gone bad
I hope this helps

1994 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline   

When I normally accelerate I feel a slight vibration between 30 and 40 miles per hour. This is noticeable only on smooth surfaces and when under a slight load as going up an on ramp to the interstate. I have changed tires and rebalanced; also replaced bushings in front suspension. But, still get the vibration. Someone suggested it may be the drive train and asked if I still get it when letting off the accelerator--I do not. Any help appreciated. Thanks!

Yes it could be in the drivetrain.You might have a faulty CV or stub axle problem.You might also want to check your motor mounts.

1994 VW Jetta Engine   

94 jetta 2.0 won't stay running will start and idle real rough. Car was losing power and sometimes stalling at red lights before it finally quit for good. Checked the harness to the 2 injectors that I was able to access and it was fine. Pulled a code from the dash that said o2 heater relay, but the bently book noted that this code applied to 6 cyl. models only. Really over my head with this car but would like and try to solve the problem.

what code info was retrieved and how? With a scanner? flashing dash light?

Retrieved the code from the blinking light in the dash number 3434 heated oxygen sensor relay says 6 cyl engines, mines a 4 cyl.

I can get the car to idle but as soon as I press the gas the car stalls.

Even though its a 6cyl code I would have to say the O2 it most likely to come in play here.It or the PCM may be having a pulse problem.

I'll do the test outlined in the bently manual for the o2 sensor. What is the pcm?

Powertrain control module

1994 VW Jetta Electrical / Lighting Systems   

No rear left/right brake lights, only upper display works. Fuse ok. Could it be the lower harness connector(s)?

Hi, Let me look at some wiring diagram info. Sometimes the cause is the turn signal switch....do the signals work on the car?

Roger

Yup, turn signals work just fine
Chris

What I'm seeing makes me ask: Do the signals and brake lights on the rear use the same filement of the stop light bulb?

Wiring diagram cross so many models it's a bit fuzzy to track. Have you inspected the bulbs for burn out? Have you removed a bulb to check for voltage present at the socket terminal when the brake pedal is pressed?

Roger

You were on the right track about bulb usage, Roger. I found the left brake filament burned out, so replaced it and then BOTH sides worked. This suggests to me that the lamps are series-connected.....wacky! Sure hope the headlight circuit isn't the same.

Thanks for your help. I,m sure i will be using your service again. Chris

Thank you so much! Please click on OK to finish up. Good job!

Roger

1994 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

Removed battery cables to clean terminals. When reconnecting, security alarm sounded and cannot start. How do I reset, or disable, security system?

First try disconnecting the battery cable for fifteen minutes. If this doesn't work try locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key. Another thing to try is turn the On and waiting ten-fifteen minutes then turn the key off to see if the system will reset. One of these methods usually work. You may a reset procedure listed in your owners manual that is specific to your car.

Hi Douglas, The first option wont work- left the battery disconneted for hours. Will try the others later today and reply tomorrow. Chris

Okay, I'll see if I can find anything more on the subject.

Locking and unlocking driver's door worked. Thanks Douglas! Chris

Information is scarce on these (for me anyway). I'll have to make a note of this fix. Thank you for the follow-up.

1994 VW Jetta Ignition System   

connected battery terminal backwards,something in altenator sparked. engine will turn over but will not start.no power at the distributor cap. power on black wire plug(3 prong) in the side of the coil,but no fire coming out of coil.checked fuses and replaced fi/ignition relay(old was not damaged).safe was displayed on the radio now nothing is showing, lights,blower,ect. all working

The safe mode on the radio is anti-theft device for the radio that needs to be reset by entering a code. Check your owners manual for procedure and the reset code. Some dealers will write it in for you. wise you will need to contact one with your vin number to see if they can help. As for the no spark, you may have damaged the ECM. If the car is equiped with a factory alarm its also possible you damaged the alarm control or blew the alarm fuse or relay.

the alarm is working, lights flashing and horn blowing. what is ecm

Electronic control module.

1994 VW Jetta Fuel System   

May be the fuel system, may not. I have a 1994 Jetta III GL that putters out while driving in stop and go traffic. It always starts up, but when I give it gas, it'll go for a bit, but then, when I press on the gas, nothing happens, it'll putter along for a bit and then give out. When driving long distances at 40 - 60 mph, generally no problems, but once I hit stop and go, she just won't take any gas. I have had it towed to a mechanic 3x. It sits in their lot for a day or two before they work on it and it runs perfectly for them, even when they put one of those computers on it to check the diagnostics. They check everything and everything seems to be fine for about a week or even two, then back to the same puttering out again. A VW dealer once told me that this car MUST have VW issue oil and filters. The last oil change was not done by a dealer could that be the problem? If not, what is? Could it be the fuel pump and relay that needs to be changed?

It is most likely a sensor issue, such as the maf (airflow sensor) which VW has a history of trouble with (depending on oil).

Oil has certain designations, as long as the designations on the oil can match the ones your car requires it doesn't matter who changes the oil. Look in your owners manual or on the oil cap to see "VW Requirements."

The fuel pump and relay are not likely to fail at certain speeds, lack of fuel pressure would be just pronounced at highspeed as it would during low speed acceleration.

Thanks Douglas for your response. So, are you saying that I should take the car to have the oil change re-done and make sure that they are using the right type of oil? If so, will it take some time for the oil to work its way through the car before it starts running right again? If that doesn't work, do you have any other thoughts?

No, I don't think the oil has anything to do with your problem. I was trying to ease your mind on the oil issue.

Do you ever experience the problem at highway speeds?

No. Once it starts puttering, I never get to high speeds. If the car sits for a day or so, I can drive it for 2 -3 hours on straight highway at 40 -60 mph. Once I reach the destination, and I hit stop and go, it starts to putter again. If I can get it back to 40 - 60 mph nonstop it is generally o.k., but it will act up again, unless it sits for a day or so.

I need to know what will solve the problem.

I have not received a response? Will I get a response to this or should I release this question for another mechanic to answer?

My car is sitting in the shop now and because I hadn't heard from you, I went ahead and paid for an oil change. Please respond.

Thanks

This time of the year I get lots of driveability complaints that are traced back to water in the gas. That might be something to consider. Sometimes when you take a gas sample , water cannot be seen. I usually just drain the tank and start with 100% fresh gas.This time of the year with some gas companys changing to their cold weather formulas and the possible condensation in tanks, it is a viable concern

1994 VW Jetta Fuel System   

We have been chasing a lean/no fuel problem on our 94 Jetta GL 2.0L--previously, the symptoms were that it goes lean or fuel injection stops totally after it warms up. Now, it idles fine and will run sporatically, then die as if it were out of gas--even standing still. The engine will run normally when squirting gas into the throttle body during testing--indicating ignition system is an unlikley cause. Even though fuel pressure readings are normal, we have replaced the pump, filter, coolant temperature sensor (4 prong), ignition switch, coil assembly, idle control valve and hoses. Please help!

Alex Losbandidos@msn.com

Hi, Have you considered checking the ground connection for the computer?

Has the fuel pressure regulator been ruled out because the fuel pressure was normal when the system went lean?

I'm going to look for Technical Service Bulletins.....

Roger

Nope, didn't find any TSBs. Have you checked for diagnostic codes?

Roger

1994 VW Jetta Engine   

I just changed the timing belt on my 1.9L diesel engine, the engine was running fine before, it was just time to change the belt. The new belt is installed, the #1 piston is at TDC (flywheel mark aligned), the camshaft lock is installed and the injection pump sprocket has the alignment pin installed. The engine will start but barely runs and there is a strong raw fuel smell to the exhaust. The engine is sitting with lock and pin installed again. What can I do now?

Sounds like you did it right the first time but from your description the belt is off one tooth.The best thing is to remove belt and redo the install.Double check everything including comparing new belt to old one.

Thanks, Bruce, that's just what I'm about to do. I'm off to buy a dial gauge, too. I'll let you know how it works.

1992 VW Jetta All Part Groups Failing Happens always Always

1992 Jetta 1.8 The radiator fan does not turn on until I shut the engine off, then it runs continually.Replaced the blue temp sensor, what is the black temp sensor for? Also I disconnected the wire to the thermo fan switch but still keeps running. If I pull relay #31 it will shut off, when I plug the relay back in it stays off.Then if I put the ignition switch to the on position without starting it and then turn it to the off position the fan comes back on......Please help!!

This is a tricky one.Is the vehicle equiped with A/C?If so,does it have dual fans? When you remove the relay and the fan shuts down,try and test power going to the relay and then when you turn the key to the on/off position you describe that causes the fan to resume running.The sensor you say you changed,was it located on the radiator?A little more info may help us out here.
Good Luck,
Paul

The sensor I changed was in the radiator hose.......I found a few things out since my first post...and yes it has AC with 1 fan......I let the fan continue to run and it did shut off after 10 minutes or so...is this on a timed circuit perhaps?...also found that my water pump is not circulating, so the sensor in the radiator is probably not getting hot, am I on the right track?

The sensor detects fluid temps and tells the fan when to turn on or shut down.They will run from time to time even after the engine has been shut down to compensate for heat still retained by the fluids and engine.The reason I asked about the A/C is that when it is turned on,the fan should automatically kick in.The additional strain put on the motor requires maximum cooling.(Actually some cars run cooler in this mode)Highway speeds may be enough to keep the fluids and engine cool with little to no engagment of the cooling fan.I'm a little curious as how you determined your water pump is not circulating fluids properly.There is a posibility that the thermostat is not opening thus giving you poor circulation.Summer is right around the corner and now would be a good time to do a through check and flush of the entire cooling system.What you spend now may save you the cost of replacing a warped head or perhaps an entire engine.
Good Luck,
Paul

well the pump it definately shot...it makes a loud clunking noise, and upon visual inspection you can see the belt pulley wobbling like crazy......it also appears that there are two coolant temp sensors, one is blue in color and the other is black. I changed the blue one but I do not know what the black one is for......Even when the car is cold I can turn the ignition to the on position without starting it and when I put it back to the off position the fan will run for 15 mins. The fan does turn on when I turn on the AC. Also the temp light indicator flashes all the time the car is running even at first when the engine is cold.

If the pump is performing as you describe,by all means change it out.When doing so,I again stress a through flushing of the cooling system.The "klunk" sound you hear may be a portion of the impeller getting knocked around.After researching a little more,I found there are 4 1.8L motors for this vehicle.They differ from a Mexico produced motor to a GTI,SOHC,and the standard motor.The standard only has one sensor for the fan so I'm guessing the second sensor you speak of is an engine temp sensor.If its telling the fan to operate after shut down,its saying I'm still hot.The change out of the pump and system flushing could very well solve all your concerns.If not,let me know and we'll dig a litte deeper.
Good Luck,
Paul

1992 VW Jetta All Part Groups   

I have a 1992 VW jetta with a maual 5speed transmisison. The clutch pedal went down to the floor the other day, so I replaced the clutch cable. I used the manually adjusting model. I can't seem to get spring action from the clutch, and everything looks in order to me. I don't have a parts breakdown for the clutch assembly, and I'm wondering if there is a spring, or a bump stop that is missing. Either on the inside or the engine compartment,

If everything ok under dash on pedal lever,probably the actuating 'finger.' for the throwout bearing. They have been known to fail.$25 part 2-2 1/2 hrs labor.

Thanks Bruce, I'll give it a look

Send me your email address, and I will send duagram. I cannot send diagrams via this forum.

There is a spring and a spring support (1HM 419 555d) and a pedal stop (861 805 461)
[redacted]

Thanks Bruce, I would love a diagram. My e-mail acct. is

Thanks Bruce, I'd love a diagram, my e-mail acct. is [redacted] Thank you very much.

1991 VW Jetta Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

My 91 Jetta is making a ticking noise which seems to be coming from the right front side of car. I jacked it up so both front wheels were off the ground and put it in drive but it wouldnt make the sound. It only happens when the car is moving and starts of real loud then subsides but doesnt go away entirely.I've checked to make sure nothing is rubbing or hitting the tire.

Hello,

Please further describe the sound. Sounds are tough, but I think we can get this one.

At what speed does the sound begin/end?

Check the driveshaft (axle shaft). Also, an exhaust leak or rattle should be ruled out.

Please be careful! It is not safe to jack a car up and start the engine, NOR put the car in gear. Safety first.

The sound actually sounds like its coming from around the door area but theres nothing there. It happens whenever the car is moving,all the time,it never goes away.It does seem to get quieter the faster u go but you can still hear it,but it only happens when the car is moving. Exhaust is fine and tight and all the brakes are good.It kind of makes the sound of a rock in your tire tread but I checked for that too.

Try swapping the suspect wheel to the back (opposite side) and see if the noise moves. Any change?

Any chance this is in the heating/cooling system?

well I got it fixed. I had my neighbor take me for a ride so I could listen out the window and the noise was coming from the right rear. I jacked the car up and turned the wheel and it made the same noise. whomever had this car before me rerouted the emergency brake cable up over the frame and the wheel weight was hitting the cable. Wire tied it back out of the way and made sure cable still worked and now the noise is gone. Thankyou for your patience and suggested and have a great day.
Allen

Okay,

Good work! It's puzzling why they would install the cable so it could come in contact with the wheel. A good lesson in how tricky noises can be. The noise must of been telegraphing up through, sounding like it was in the front from the drivers seat.

Let me know if anything else comes up.

How many miles?

208,592 miles and still going.
Thanks

1990 VW Jetta Engine Making Noise Happens always Always

Hi my 1990 jetta is making a clanking noise that seems to be coming from the motor area not sure! and it hesitates sometimes like if it's back firing but i know that i need a new o2 sensor but if anyone has an idea about this it will be much apprecited and estimated cost of repairs if needed.

it's 5 speed wolfsberg edition

"it's 5 speed wolfsberg edition"

How long has it been making the clanking noise?
Please further describe the sound as best you can. Including under what conditions the sounds occurs- Idling, accelerating, at cruising speed, decelerating, etc.

Does it actually backfire (bang or pop) or simply hesitate (lag or delay)?

it makes the clanking noise idle or driving but you can hear it the most when at idle, and the pop ia not that loud but more at idle and i can feel the hesitation to when accelerating, but i was told that it may be the valves that needs adjusting or the rod knocking and other stuff but everyone seems to think that it is the valve or either the upper or lower part of the motor.

1987 VW Jetta Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm 

While driving after warm car starts to chug and lose power, it may come back or continue to chug. Aftermarket fuel pumps have been put in, problem did not change. It seems like ignition but cannot find anything wrong. If key is turned off and immediately turned back on, the power is immediately back until another 1/4 mile to mile. Computer has been changed, has new plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and coil. All grounds have been checked over twice. Problem still occurs. It runs very well when running, starts great.

Has a restricted exhaust(plugged catalytic converter) been ruled out? Connect a vacuum gauge to intake vacuum. Start the car and observe the vacuum. Raise the engine rpms to about 2000 rpms and run until engine is fully warm. If the converter is plugged the vacuum will slowly start to drop, and continue to drop.

exhaust has been tested and disconnected, problem is still there

Have the trouble codes been checked? Do a google.com search for instructions and code meanings.

1987 VW Jetta Ignition System   

A direct short from the (+) side of battery to chassis casues engine to die. Nothing works now. Where is the main fuse or fusble link located on the 1987 Jetta?

I couldn't find a listing for the main fuse. If there is one it will usually be under hood in a fuse box or under the dash in the fuse box.

Look for fusible links between the battery and starter/alternator.

1986 VW Jetta Fuel System Chugging When idling Always

I picked up this car for free!! It had been sitting in a neighbors yard for two years and when i finally got it started it chuggs and stalls. i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and fuel filter (the plug wires seemed newer so i left them). It will run fine at highter rpms (above 3000) but it seems to be runing rich (when i pull the new plugs they are covered in black soot). Some times it will be hard to start, like its not getting fuel and it sometimes dies when coming to a stop. Also, under accelaration it seems to be starved for fuel and it lags, then picks up a second or two after i mash on the pedal.
poor student, please help
morgan

By black soot,do you mean like a dry ashy carbon soot,or an oily type of soot?The two different types come from different types of conditions.One is most likely an air fuel problem,the other internal engine problems.A few more answers and maybe we can figure it out.
Good Luck,
Paul

Does your check engine light come on while the engine is running?

Do you have the 1.8l fuel injected engine or a diesel engine?

Check thorougly for vacuum leaks.

Have you checked for leaking injectors?

It is a dry soot, i can clean most of it off with a wire brush, but when i check them again - they're black again, so i think its an air/fuel problem.

it is the 1.8L, i have checked for vaccum leaks using carb cleaner and it seems like there are none. i took off the idle stabilizer valve and cleaned it out. But i havent checked for leaky injectors. How would i do that?

no check engine lights or anything

There are a couple ways to check injectors. You can visually watch the injector to see if fuel leaks. Do this once fuel pressure is established, turn the key off. Does the fuel injector leak while pressure is present?

An alternative method requires a fuel pressure gauge. Install the gauge and establish fuel pressure (turn key on or start engine). Shut engine off and observe fuel pressure. Does pressure hold or start a slow steady drop?

A good fuel injector cleaner, such as Chevron Techron, may help to clean a dirty engine.

You may also have a sensor problem.

How long have you driven the car? How much fuel was in the tank when you started? Did you drive the car with the old gas in it?

1986 VW Jetta Electrical / Lighting Systems Hesitating Happens sometimes When warm 

Car idles and runs fine until it's warm, and then hesitation starts. Mechanic has it and said it was fine until he ran it with the heater on for a half hour. He said at that point he could barely get it to start.

In other words, it runs well UNTIL it gets warm.

Some ideas: A heat sensor?
A friend has a similar problem on a tractor and he said something about an injector pump that gets air into it when the engine gets warm.

Gas or diesel engine?

Gas engine -- 1986 GL.

Your friends tractor would have a diesel engine with an injector pump, troubleshooting will be different on your gas engine.

Did your mechanic think it was the heat sensor (commonly referred to as a coolant temperature sensor)?

The first thing I'd like you to check is for a restricted exhaust (ie- a plugged catalytic converter). There are a few methods available to do this. First is to use a vacuum gauge. Install a vacuum gauge to the intake manifod while the engine is cold. Start the engine and raise the rpm's to about 1000 rpms (roughly to the fast idle point). Note the vacuum cold and as the engine begins to warm. If the vacuum starts a steady drop downward this is a sign of restricted exhaust.

Another option is to run the car in darkness until the problem arises. Then look at the exhaust pipe to see if it appears hot. When it gets hot enough to cause a loss of power the exhaust will begin to glow, usually at the catalytic converter. Please do all testing safely.

Try one of these methods and let me know if this is the problem.

If not, please offer any additional information-

Does the engine misfire or simply lag or lack power?

[Does the engine misfire or simply lag or lack power?"]

The engine lacks power. A week ago I drove to the inspection station (around 6 miles), waited on a short line, and the car was fine until the trip home. It passed for emissions (which is a rarity in NJ).

I will take what you sent me today to the mechanic (where the car is) in the morning, and get back to you.

Thank you,

Nan

1986 VW Jetta Heating / Cooling System Overheating Happens sometimes Always

Bought a used car which ran perfectly 1st. week. After that started running hot & would overheat if I let it. Replaced thermostat, water pump, heater hoses, flushed system very well twice - newer radiator. Changed oil using VW oil filter and Full Synth oil. Car still runs hot. When flushing, all flows nice, clean, green coolant except from the metal tube going to heater hose inlet - a bit a brownish sludge there. Can I replace this entire metal tube that looks like it runs between the radiator and down under the engine block? I see no trace of oil in the coolant or vice versa.

Yes you can change the tube but I'm not sure this is your main problem.Does' the cooling fan(s) engage even after turning the engine off?Even with a complete flush,you may see signs of old corrosion.Unless the tube or heater core were clogged to the point that you had no circulation,I'd start with the fans and sensors to try and pinpoint and work from there.Keep in touch and we'll and work it thru.
Good Luck,
Paul

1985 VW Jetta Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm 

My friend just leant me his Jetta for 7 weeks. Not sure the year but it's a diesel stationwagen. The car will not go into first gear. At first it worked, then became difficult, then became impossible. What could be the problem?

I'll assume this is a manual transmission. If you shift into second, then try to shift into first with the engine Not running- will it shift? If yes with the engine off but not with the engine running- the clutch is not releasing fully. If it won't shift either way you either have internal damage or a lubrication issue. Check the fluid level (change if needed) and consider an additive that may restore shifting. If there is damage inside the transmission the cost is likely to great to be worth fixing.

1983 VW Jetta Fuel System Won't Start Happens always When warm 

My 1983 Jetta has a problem with hot starting. It began
doing this in December of last year.When cold, the car starts immediately and once it is warmed up is very difficult to start after sitting for 10 minutes to a half hour. I have to crank the engine for at least 30 seconds before it will start. Once the engine is running, it runs great, just hard to start when warm. My mechanic has changed the injectors and O rings, fuel filter, fuel accumulator and both check valves. The fuel pump was tested and appears OK in pressure and volume. He even tried a fuel distributor out of another car and nothing seems to solve the problem. I believe he also shimmed the fuel distributor and check valves. Nothing seems to work. Any advise would be appreciated. Thank for your time.

Did he check the resting fuel pressure to rule out a problem here (ie- accumulator)?

What needs to be determined is if the engine is getting to much fuel or not enough. Will the engine start better if you hold the accelerator to the floor (IE- flooded engine)? If no, will it start will a small shot of starting fluid (only attempt to use starting fluid if you have experience with it and fully understand safety precautions), if necessary have your mechanic try this. This could also be accomplished by fooling the car into thinking it's cold (ie- activate the cold start valve).

If it won't start (quicker) with more air (equivalent to less fuel) or with more fuel the problem appears elsewhere.

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

The reason my 1983 Jetta would not start when warm was because the ignition module and ignition switch were shot and needed replacing. They would allow the starter to operate, but would not signal the rest of the engine to start, except when cold, when the cold start injector would provide extra fuel for starting.
Thanks for your time.