Volvo GL Series

1991 Volvo GL Series Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

Has happened twice, just would not start, all lights are on but the engine does start, then all of a sudden it goes, and now seems to be working fine.This happened a couple of weeks ago aswell but in between times all is fine and the engine fires into life on the first time of asking.

Hello, My first suggestion would be to clean and retighten the battery cable connections. Both cables, both ends. Voltage may be getting through but the amps needed for the starter to work may not be due to corrossion or loose connections.

Am I off track here? Does the starter spin the engine okay but it just won't fire up?

Roger

When you put the key in all the battery and dashboard lights come on the you turn it to start the car and nothing happens at all, the dashboard lights do not even flicker off as they do when you can start the car. The car runs really well and the engine starts first time all the time except for these two occasions when nothing has happened at all, then the next time we try it everything is fine. We have checked the battery and cabels and they are all fine.

Thanks for your really prompt response, this is the first time I have used this service, but I will write a testimonial for you guys

Thank you.

Gavin Cooper

I will ask some guys at a Swedish Import shop in my area for a suggestion. Perhaps they will help us think this through.

I will also look for a wiring schematic to identify circuit operation.

Unless this proves to be a common event we may be guessing here. I don't like to guess. Ultimately the problem may have to be present to diagnose and control the cost of repairs. Number one is to duplicate the complaint, then you can expect a confident approach that will fix it right the first time.

Roger

Roger

Thank you I will wait for your next email after the guys in Sweden have got back to you.

Thank you

Gavin Cooper.

Am i supposed to send payment now or after all this is done, and how much do people usually offer.

You have already posted payment with All-Parts when you began this question. You do not owe additional money and I do not get paid unless you accept my help as your answer. When you click on "OK to pay mechanic" All-Parts will pay me from the funds you have already posted. I cannot charge you. I never see your credit card info, personal email address, etc. I wouldn't know your name without you sending it the same way you learned my name.

OK! Swedish Imports master mechanic states that it is most likely the INHIBITOR SWITCH would cause the condition you describe. This switch prevents the car from starting in gear. It is located under the panel that your shift lever is in on the floor. When the shifter moves the switch is mechanically connected to move too. The switch allows engine start in Park and Neutral.

If you were quick enough to realize the car did not start and you still had the key in START position, you could bump the shifter (toward Park) or select Neutral and the engine would start normally.

Fluid spills in the shifter/console area can effect the inhibitor switch performance as well. You may need a switch or to confirm that the adjustment/indexing of the old one is correct.

Roger

Good plan but it is a manual Gearbox.

Okay, wish I'd known that. When I talked with Swedish Imports he told me a manual shift will start in gear and does not have a switch requiring the clutch be down to start.

The schematic shows a PINK wire directly shunted to the BLUE-GREEN wire that connects to the starter solenoid. The PINK wire is an ignition switch output when the key is in the START position. I do not know how this shunt is done or if it is located next to the shifter, but I'll ask!

If you would like I can FAX the schematic I have to you.

I will step aside if you prefer to have another mechanic's input. Your call.

Roger

Roger

Thank you for all your help no need to fax the schmatic as I already have one. I think I would be able to fix the car if I could Isolate the problem the only thing is that the car is working fine.

I have run some tests but until it breaks again I cannot identify the problem, at that point I will be able to run the tests again to see what is not working. I believe that it is an electrical fault either with the ignition swith/cable itself, the solonoid cable/solonoid or the starter motor.

Thank you for all your help again what do you think about what I have said here. After you next response I will confirm that you have been very helpful and I appreciate how hard this is as you cant see the car.

Kind regards

Gavin

Gavin, Certainly the complaint must be duplicated to promptly and correctly diagnose and come up with a repair procedure.

You might want to inspect the ignition switch electrical connector for condition and tight fit.

I'll restate that I do not like to guess. It seldom brings an opinion other than I got lucky.

I do believe you are focused on the best components to "suspect" would cause the fault. My hope is when it happens again you'll have the least of inconveniences.

I wish you the best,

Roger